AIEL MARKET

CORDAGE GUIDE
for the
PERFORMANCE
STAGE

THE FOLLOWING MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED
WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR ©

Topics

CORDAGE TYPES

  BUNGEE

    These are common cords made of a synthetic material that has great elasticity. A hook or snap hook at each end makes for easy attachment to itself or to objects that fit within the crooks. Their great flexibility means they can be wound around items, then pulled tightly and hooked to prevent unwrapping.

    Included in this type of cordage are Rubber Straps. These also have hooks but are not as flexible or as stretchy as Bungee Cord; however, they are much stronger and less prone to breaking.

    For stage purposes, they are used to wrap items that may increase or decrease in quantity, such as wooden dowels or small piping. The springiness of bungee cords might be used to hold back curtains yet allow give as persons brush by. Both these and rubber straps are useful to secure rolled mats or to keep tarps closed, hold air-lift towers in upright positions for storage or transport, keep van doors open in windy conditions, and as emergency case-lid securers.

  LACES

    These may seem an oddity, but Shoe Laces can be useful for stage purposes if one buys robust, quality Laces. They can be employed as ties for small cables such as XLR or Data Cables, and since Laces come in a wide variety of colours, they can designate cables or groups/types of cables. Thus, blue Laces might be used as ties for CAT 5 cables, while black ones might serve for XLR cables.

    Look for a soft, flexible Lace that has a flat, non-waxed surface. It should be a braided material for extra strength, and the aiglets must be metal, not plastic. The latter type of crimp can shatter too easily during stage use/abuse.

  LEATHER

    These are strips of rawhide with a rectangular cross section having a diameter of 3mm. The ones we use have been cut into half-metre to one-metre lengths. Each of our single-circuit electrical cables five metres or longer has one of these attached. So have all multi-circuit cables with diameters of under 30mm, which means all four- and most six-circuit cables. The leather strip is attached near the female connector so that when the cable is in use, it can be tied off to a handy pipe or post as necessary. When the cable is coiled for storage, the tie is wrapped through and around the coil once, then secured with a shoelace knot & bow. Because the tie is captive to the cable, it does not become lost.

    We use these because they are strong, yet very flexible, and they are easily manipulated while wearing work gloves. Cost is a bit high (about $3.00/metre), but service life is one of decades as long as they are not allowed to dry out.

  ROPE

    There are a great many materials used for rope. We use nylon and polypropylene. Both are strong and lightweight, come in a variety of colours, plus are inexpensive. Most are used for tying loads or trunk lids for customers at our shop, but are sometimes used at gigs to cordon restricted areas, or to designate something important such as pathways to and from a stage. Heavy ropes with nooses are used by us to haul lights up to dead-hang positions.

    If you buy a twisted rope, it will not have a closed weave, so when it is cut it will unravel. We recommended a braided or double-braided weave. However, If you must use twisted rope, cut it in your shop to usable lengths, then if the material is artificial such as nylon, cauterise the ends by heating with a propane torch. When the end is flaming, quickly place it between two large blocks of wood and roll one block back & forth over the rope end. Be cautious because the flaming ends will drip hot material that can cause burns and fires. If the material is not a type that melts, knot the cut ends to prevent unravelling. For very large ropes where knots would make usage be too unwieldy, use strong Twine to secure fraying ends.

    When knot stability or stretching are issues, use a natural-fibre rope such as Manilla or Sisal. These fibres are very strong, provide great friction where fibres touch, and have a low elastic modulus. Thus they grip knot loops tightly without stretching. As an aside, both happen to be biodegradable, but this characteristic is not likely to be needed within the performance industry.

    A final word on this topic for those that may wonder why `fly'(*) rope or cable is not discussed here. Because this page is dedicated to the cordage used regularly by crews, installation cordage is outside the scope of this narrative, as is wire rope (cable).

(*) `Fly' is the term used to hang backdrops, flats and set
pieces that are to be winched in and out of an audience's
view during a show. (See the AIEL Glossary) for more details.

  SASH CORD

    A staple for stage, motion picture and touring crews, it is preferred because of its matte finish, flexibility, strength versus cord diameter, and for its closed-weave design. The latter means that when it is cut it won't unravel. It is easily manipulated while wearing work gloves, plus it readily knots and unknots.

    Sash comes in black or white colour, and in several thicknesses. Materials are cotton and cotton/synthetic blends. In some cases, Sash Cord has a cotton jacket over a synthetic core. This provides softness to the touch, but extra strength overall. A similar product, sometimes referred to as "Stage Cord", is entirely synthetic, but its outer covering has been made soft to the touch. This type is exceptionally strong. Black-coloured Sash is particularly favoured where unobtrusiveness and no reflections are desired, plus it does not show dirt as does a white cord.

    Although we stock other diameters, we typically use 5mm or 8mm depending on what is being secured. Most times the thicker cord is used on feeder cables, but it also is useful to tie up looms (bundles) of cables in a run or to a girder or lighting truss. The best Sash Cord is strong enough to support heavy backdrops and set pieces.

  STRING

    Ordinary Shipper's String can sometimes be used in certain situations as a low-budget solution to other cordage discussed on this page. Cotton is the preferred material as it is soft, easily cut, and inexpensive. Shipper's String will not unravel when cut.

    Use String to secure fraying ends of other cordage after the latter has been cut. Wrapped diagonally around other cordage and tied at each end, it can serve as a marker. One might also bundle rolls of adhesive tape together with string.

  TWINE

    The twine to which is referred here is a synthetic, braided material, not the fuzzy type sold in post offices and grocery stores. We use a brown-coloured, fisherman's Dacron Polyester Twine because it is incredibly strong for its 3mm diameter. It is useful in situations where an unobtrusive cordage is preferred over more noticeable types, or where a small-diameter cord is needed to thread through small openings or slots. It cuts easily and does not unravel.

    This is not as flexible as most other cordage discussed here, and its small diameter makes it hard to tie with gloves on, but its strength and slimness make it very useful. We use it to tie up items in permanent or semi-permanent situations. Its very low cost helps when a lot of strong cordage might be needed.

    Typical uses by us are to hang banners, grommeted backdrops, small groupings of cables, or to tie a cable to a conduit where its small diameter is needed to fit between the conduit and the surface to which it is attached.

STORAGE

    For our shop purposes, all cordage is kept on the reels supplied by the manufacturers. These are typically mounted onto a cable rack. On the road, it's stored in a Cordage Kit, most as pre-cut lengths.

    Short lengths can be stored in round, or preferably square, metal tins meant for cookies or chocolates. For organisational purposes, keep each cordage type in a different tin. Coil the cut lengths around the inside perimeter, then work toward the center. These tins easily stack on shop shelves or in a case for touring. Thicker cordage or larger quantities can go inside small plastic totes or storage boxes that have snap lids. These in turn can be packed into road cases for protection, since some totes/boxes of this type don't travel well -- especially any with non-captive lids.

    To have cordage ready at a moment's notice in the shop, make hangers out of wide towel racks. Cut lengths could be draped over these, but they're likely to fall or get knocked off. To retain each cord, use a stationery binder clip that has been attached with a cable tie to the bar of the rack. This method assures that each cord is displayed for fast selection and inventory. A towel rack is the perfect solution to storing and exhibiting broken lengths -- see Cordage Tips next.

CORDAGE TIPS

• Buy Quality.  There are always cheaper versions of any product. Buying cheap cordage might be fine for some purposes, but for any load-bearing uses, get the best. Not having people get hurt far outweighs the cost of the better product. Here are some additional points to consider when buying cordage:
  
  
  1. Beware of Looped Strands.  They indicate that not all component fibres are bearing the stress in the same way. Looped fibres also fetch on sharp points and then pull or tear. This weakens the cordage and contributes to premature wear.
     
     
  2. Look for Broken Strands.  They mean fewer fibres are handling the stress. This cordage cannot bear its full load. Broken fibres also contribute to premature wear.
     
     
  3. Check for Varying Diameter.  This is a sign of poor manufacturing; it typically shows up with braided products having an interior, braided core. Such cordage might have changing load-bearing capabilities depending on how thick a particular length is. It may indicate potential problems in the center of the cord. If this cord is used over a pulley or pulled through a narrow opening, it will alternately be smooth running, then binding, as it pays in or out over its uneven length.
  
  
• Coil Long Lengths of Cordage Clockwise.  Industry standard is to wind coils in a clockwise direction. This is also standard in the fire department, the sailing industry, search & rescue, and in the military.
  
    Do not allow figure-eights or twists. These are prevented by rolling each loop between one's fingers as it is introduced into the coil in such a manner that each successive loop is perfectly formed and lies beside the previous loop. Winding this way all the time gives cordage a `set' so that it will practically fall into this coil during pack-up at the end of a show.
  
    Another standard is the "over & under" or "opposite twist" style whereby every second loop is coiled the opposite way. This is an excellent method, but is more difficult to learn. Because of this, we have decided upon the "clockwise coil" method. It is much easier to explain and show to the pickup crews at the various venues during tours, so they pick up the method more quickly. In addition, those helping us from any of the professions mentioned two paragraphs back, will already know the "clockwise coil" method.
  
  
• When Tying Knots, use a Shoelace Knot & Bow.  This type of knot is universally known, and it is easily tied while wearing work gloves. During setups, one pull and it becomes quickly untied, so it's conducive to fast working conditions.
  
  
• Rejuvenate Leather Ties with Oil.  If rawhide ties are allowed to dry out they can easily break. To restore them, use a lightweight, clear product such as mineral oil. Do not overuse! The tie will become slippery. Let soak in for a few hours or overnight before restoring to usage. Absorb excess oil with dry, lint-free rags before usage.
  
  
• Use Electronic Crimp Connectors on Laces.  When cutting Shoe Laces for smaller cables and you have no actual aiglets, crimp a butt splice onto each cut end to keep the laces intact. Butt splices come in a variety of sizes and in colours based upon those sizes, but most useful is the yellow one meant for #14 wire because it fits typical Lace diameters. Crimp connectors will also provide better grip when installed at the ends of the lace.
  
  
• Wrap String around Sash Cord as an Identifier.  Tie a white string to one end of a black Sash Cord length. Keeping the cord taut and the string tight to the cord, wrap it diagonally around and toward the other end, then tie another knot. This white stripe can identify a particular length of cordage meant for a specific purpose. One could also use a variety of colours, each to designate a specific length.
  
  
• Keep Broken Lengths.  Some cordage will age, eventually wear and then break, or it may get severed during usage. Retain these broken ends for purposes that can make use of a shorter piece, especially around your shop. This saves dipping into new stock, thus stretching one's cordage budget and inventory. A towel rack, as brought up in the Storage section, is the perfect solution to storing and displaying these broken lengths. Doing so reminds shop staff that these short lengths are available because they are always visible.

We Supply
Leather Ties and Sash Cord
Purchase AIEL Cordage

This Article is
Available in
Plain Text for
Your Archives

Cordage Guide, Text Format