Atlantic Illumination Entertainment Lighting

AIEL Shop Tips


(Image Left: Ellipsoidal Stage Light)

The ellipsoidal or profile spot (often, and erroneously,
called a "leko", unless it's a certain Strand model
range) is a favourite light of the theater. It
produces a sharp or soft-edged beam via
plano-convex or step lenses that are able
to be shaped using internal shutters. Patterns
(gobos) can be projected with this fixture. Typical
wattages are 300 to 1000, but can go outside of this.

The ellipsoidal is the most problematic of the basic lighting
fixtures when it goes out of alignment, and it usually suffers
the most from lack of maintenance. This is due to the complexity
of the fixture compared to a PAR or fresnel.

    Instructions here will lead you through the complete refurbishment
of a typical, non-LED ellipsoidal. However, you might only need
do a part of what is outlined here, so simply skip to the pertinent
section(s). Also, you may have to modify these instructions to suit
your manufacturer's fixture.

Table of Contents for this Page

Disassembly Inspection and Reconditioning Electrical
Painting Reassembly and Lubrication Alignment


Be aware that neither Atlantic Illumination, nor its owner or
employees will be responsible for any problems encountered as
a result of adhering or not adhering to the procedures here. This
is strictly a guideline. You must decide the suitability of the
following, and must be responsible for the results of your work.



    Read through this article before starting so you'll have an idea of what is required. You may find that some steps are better done out of order for your particular model. Make notes or drawings as to what parts are associated with a given procedure. It also does not hurt to have an assembled fixture available as a reference during the later re-assembly of the light being overhauled should you not be familiar with the particular model on which you are working. Also, you may wish to print this page and use it to check off each step as it is completed.

    Set up a work space with proper lighting and the tools required. See our Work Area Setup article to help with this. Have some numbered containers or a muffin pan available in which to place the parts from each phase of the disassembly. This will be of benefit when it comes time to put the unit back together. Lay some clean newspapers on the bench to protect both the bench and the fixture. The light colour also helps to contrast small parts which might be dropped during the overhaul operation, and newspaper makes for a nice work surface.

    You should have the following available:  


    Remember to keep track of the disassembly by making notes, using numbered containers or a numbered muffin pan to hold the parts removed during each step, and by making an notes or having an assembled fixture standing by as a reference. Now do the following:

  1.     Working with a room-temperature fixture, first remove any clamp or stand adaptor, and place it aside. Next, take off the yoke. With some models, the removal of internal nuts may be required to get the yoke off. Some persons wait to do the above until after the next two procedures. If you wish to delay, ensure during movement that the still-attached yoke and clamp do not damage anything on the bench. It's easy for a less-than-tight yoke to swing unexpectedly and hit something, or to jam a finger between it and the bench or the fixture itself.

  2.     Now take off the lens tube, if the model does not have an internal track/holder. It's usually able to be done by unscrewing the lens focusing knob. Remove the lens(es) either by taking out the retainer ring or by removing retaining clips. Place the lens(es) in your safe place as discussed in the Work Area Setup and set aside the lens tube and any spacers. If the lenses are internal, you will have to wait to remove them during the body disassembly stage.

  3.     Next remove the lamp housing. This is typically done by unscrewing one or more retainer screws or knobs and removing the assembly. Take out the lamp and put it in your safe place. Retain the date tag (if there is one) with the lamp so it can be reattached or recreated upon reassembly. When removing the lamp, don't be worried about touching the bulb. You will be cleaning it before re-insertion during the assembly stage at the end. Set the lamp housing aside. You will not be dissembling this now but will do it during the electrical overhaul (unless it requires painting. (See that section, farther on).

  4.     Now, if not already done, detach the yoke and clamp or stand adaptor, and place them aside.

  5.     Return to the fixture body. Remove any brackets or sections by unscrewing their retainer/adjustment knobs and taking out any screws. Continue until the remainder of the fixture is apart. Be sure to put the parts and hardware associated with each disassembly stage into their own numbered container. You should now have an empty body shell.


  1.     Look at the body to see if there are any dents or bent parts. Repair as necessary. To pound out dents, use a wooden form and rubber mallet to lessen metal damage as compared to a direct hammer blow. Inspect the screw mounts for the yoke; they should not be worn or damaged. If so, then it means a trip to the machine shop to have it re-threaded. Note that some models use a "grab plate" locking mechanism, so the yoke mounts are free to pivot, thus stripped screw mounts are less likely to have happened.

  2.     Do the same for the yoke. Note any burrs that should be filed off, and then straighten the yoke, using a vice if necessary.

  3.     Now place the body into a plastic set tub or use rubber mats to protect an enamel one. Scrub the unit using hot water and dish soap. Use a tooth brush to get into small areas. Remove rust with a wool-type soapy scouring pad. Rinse. (A one-metre length of garden hose is good for this.) Dry with an old towel. Don't use a new one as some rust will likely come off. Hang the unit up to air dry inaccessible areas. Repeat this procedure for the yoke.

  4.     For a severely corroded body, and for tarnished hardware, employ a narrow paint scraper and use a bench grinder with a wire brush to buff the finish. A brass brush is preferred over steel. If no grinder is available, use an electric drill with a lockable trigger. Clamp the drill into a vise. You will likely find that clamping the drill and holding the parts against the rotating brush works better than clamping the parts. It saves having to clamp and unclamp each part, and having to put the drill down to do the re-clamping. Use a pair of pliers, preferably the locking type, to hold small parts. This will give you more control and also keep your skin away from the rotating bristles. Work gloves are recommended, as are hearing protection and goggles or a face shield.

        Begin to buff the fixture body. Do not press too hard because the wire bristles will score the metal. Use the side of the bristles for finer work with less chance of scoring the metal. You need not take off all the old paint -- only that which is loose, and of course, surface rust should be removed, too. Dust the parts off.

        (If you are not going to wash what you have buffed, you can skip to the Painting section so that the first coat on the fixture body will be drying while you continue with the steps below.)

  5.     Take the reflector and place it into the sink. If it's made from aluminum, use a wool (not steel wool!) soap pad, clean the back of the reflector as a scratch test. Use the pad with a motion that follows the reflector shape. If it polishes with no scratches, do the same to the front. If scratches appear from the test, you will have to decide if it is better to have a tarnished reflector versus a shiny, scratched one. I vote for the latter if it reflects more light without too much scatter rather than leaving it tarnished.

        If severely tarnished to the point that it may not be usable, you can try to polish it with actual steel wool soap pads, or with automotive rubbing compound. The worst ones will have to be taken to a professional metal refinisher or be replaced with new ones.

        For glass reflectors, handling them by the edges, blow off loose dust using a can of compressed gas or a squeeze bulb as used by photographers. Rinse under warm water until no grit is left. To remove film build-up, mix a small squirt of dish detergent soap and water, and with clean, wet hands gently wash the reflector. Watch for rough edges that might cause cuts. Some glass reflectors will have coatings that increase their efficiency. These can be destroyed if glass cleaner or undiluted alcohol are used on them. Use only soap and warm water. If the grime is particularly stuck, a solution of 10% alcohol and water can be employed. Whatever the material, when finished rinse and air dry. If you find some streaks are left, you might repeat the process, but used distilled water as a final rinse. Once completed, place glass reflectors into your safe place with soft cloths or paper towels protecting them.

  6.     Getting back to the fixture, You should have a shutter assembly that was separated from the housing. If the shutters need replacement and are the captive type, you will have to drill out the rivets for the handle or remove its nut & bolt. Now take apart the shutter assembly. Note the order and orientation of the separator plates and any hardware. Some ellipsoidals have sprung shutters and it's easy to lose these parts when taking them apart, so be careful here. Note well the order of these parts; there can be a lot of them.

        Look for worn plates or chafing of the housing. These parts may need to be replaced. Bent shutters might be able to be straightened, but are typically unable to be made completely flat. You will have to decide if they are able to be reused. If they are too kinked, they will bind, and if corroded to the point of missing sections, replace with new ones. For reusable ones, buff off all parts with steel wool, or use a sanding sponge or emery cloth. If small bumps remain, use a flat, fine-toothed file to remove them while being careful not to file a hole through the plate. It is imperative that the shutters and any separator plates be as even and as flat as possible so as to assure bind-free operation and fine adjustment.

  7.     The part of the lens tube that slides within the outer housing will need to be buffed if there is no internal guide track. Use steel wool or a sanding sponge to attain a smooth surface.

  8.     Take the lenses to the sink and place them one at a time on to a cloth or old towel at the bottom of the sink. Run warm water over them to wash the loose dirt off and then use dish soap with bare hands to gently clean each lens. Watch that sharp edges or defects don't cut your hands, and that your hands don't get so slippery as to make holding on to the lens difficult. Plano lenses are expensive, so you won't want to break them.

        As with glass reflectors, use only a solution of soap and water and clean hands. Step lenses often have black risers. Be careful not to remove this paint. Some lenses will have coatings that increase their transmission of light. These can be destroyed if glass cleaner or undiluted alcohol are used on them. Even though some can handle alcohol, as a caution use only soap and warm water even if the manufacturer states otherwise. It's possible that someone could have replaced a lens with one which coating cannot handle even alcohol. If you suspect this, follow the reflector cleaning instructions father back. Whatever the material, when finished cleaning, rinse and air dry. Place the lenses back into your safe place with cloths or paper towels protecting them.

  9.     Clean and recondition any remaining items. Pipe clamps and stand adaptors, along with their hardware, typically require wire brushing and repainting. Take the clamp apart to do this. Set aside the parts to be repainted. Review the electrical section if the lamphouse requires re-painting. Replace any severely rusted parts if they can't be buffed cleanly by the wire brush. Coat unpainted, cleaned hardware with a medium machine oil.


  1.     Move to the socket assembly. Remove the socket and inspect the contact screws. Burnish off any corrosion there and inside the socket. If it remains severely discoloured, you should replace it. (Discoloured sockets can contribute to reduced lamp life.) When doing so, be sure to replace the insulator wafer under the socket if it's damaged, split, or missing. (Some ellipsoidal sockets do not use such an insulator.)

  2.     If the line cord is attached through a strain relief, remove both and inspect. Should the cord be melted, frayed, or brittle, it will require replacement. If it's old and uses asbestos wiring, install a new line cord. Asbestos conducts electricity when wet and is hazardous to breathe. Put the wiring into a plastic grocery bag and send to recycle or to your local Hazardous Waste Facility.

        Some line cords may use fibreglass sheaths. Replace or repair as necessary. If cord damage is external to the fixture body, you may use electrical tape or heat shrink after the repair. If it's internal, cut off the bad part of the sheath and slide a good section inside. Make up the shortfall on the other end with an appropriate length of sheathing coupled via heat shrink or black electrical tape. When the light is fully assembled, the sheath should run from the socket assembly, along the line cord and into the plug at the other end.

  3.     Clean off the socket mount and inspect for damage. Repair as necessary. If it's rusted, it will have to be scraped or buffed, washed, and then painted with a heat-resistant finish. If painting is required, follow the steps below.


    If it is determined that some parts need to be repainted, and the dent repair and rust removal has been completed, it's time to paint. Confirm that the fixture or parts are clean and dry, and then proceed to your paint area.

  1.     Mask any things to not be painted such as electrical stickers, screw threads, or lens barrels that must slide without guide tracks. To facilitate tape removal, leave a tab on the tape by folding a small bit of the sticky side back on to itself.

  2.     Get out your spray paint. I suggest a heat-resistant flat black for the inside and a satin black for the exterior. Some prefer flat black for all. I like to have the lens tube and gel frame holder be flat -- inside and out, save for any part that slides. Alternatively, you may wish to use a company/individual colour for the outside.

        Shake the can well, and in a well-lit area, spray in even strokes, releasing the nozzle at each end of the pass. Repeat for the yoke, hanging each to dry in a non-dusty area. Keep the coats thin and allow to dry between coats as per instructions on the can. Use paint solvent to clean overspray. Allow to dry. Realise that dry paint can still be soft underneath, so handle carefully. It is best to wait over night so as to achieve a fully cured, hard coating.

        If the exterior is to be a different colour, after the interior has dried, coat it using the technique above. Keep overspray out of the interior. You may have to touch up the inside after the exterior has been completed. Allow to dry. After each painting session, blow out the paint can nozzle by turning it upside down and spraying until only propellant comes out. To lessen waste, I always do this onto one of the lights I am in the process of painting.


  1.     You should now have a number of sections and parts which are clean, non-damaged and possibly repainted. Being careful of your new paint work, start to reassemble the fixture in reverse order, beginning with any internal sections. Pay particular attention to the shutter assembly which must be put together in the right sequence and orientation. As mentioned, paint may take a day or so to harden completely, hence the caution if handling too soon.

  2.     Lubricate any hardware with a long-lasting, medium oil, and use silicone spray for any lens guides or parts that slide past one another. Keep oil and silicone off any parts not intended. This is especially true for the lenses, reflector, and lamp. Keep these different lubricant types apart from one another, too. In addition, keep them off your bench. An oil/silicone soaked bench is not a good environment for lighting fixtures because it will work its way into areas where it is not wanted. Replace bench-top newspapers often.

  3.     Put the electrical back together. Use silicone spray in the socket. This will facilitate later lamp removal in that it will help prevent lamp/socket freeze up. Don't worry about exact socket placement, but try to get it close to where it was before disassembly. The lamp will be aligned in the next section. Replace the lamp and wipe the bulb with soft tissue dipped in methanol or rubbing alcohol to remove dirt and finger oils. Restore the lamphouse to the fixture.

  4.     Make a new date tag by using white electrical tape placed on the inside of the yoke. If the original installation date is unknown, write the current year (four digits) and month (three letters) and `P.I.S.' The latter stands for "Previously in Service". If a new lamp is installed, only the year and month are required. This is done so you will know the kind of lamp life a given fixture and lamp type provides. Make the date tag be twice the required length so that at the next lamp replacement, there will be room to write the new date. This way, the date tag only need be replaced every second burnout.

  5.     For the lenses, gently use a soft cloth to remove any handling finger prints or smudges that happened after the washing process, or repate the cleaning process and use distilled water as a final rinse. Remember to keep glass cleaner and alcohol away unless you are absolutely sure the lenses have no optically-enhancing coating. Restore the lenses to the tube or internal track/holder using any required separator elements. Note that in some models, the separators must be oriented to allow the operation of focusing devices or retainer knobs.

        Confirm that the lenses are loose! Do not place retainer clips or rings hard against them. They must have room to expand during operation. Place the lens tube into the fixture. You may wish to silicone this tube, but skip it if the extended tube will get touched and transfer silicone to a person's hands. This can cause problems due to its extreme slipperiness.

  6.     Do the final assembly using the remaining parts, but you may elect to leave the yoke and pipe clamp off until after the alignment is done.


    This requires a stand or jig which will support the ellipsoidal with its shutters open. It may be made of wood or metal but should have the cradle lined with cloth, rubber, or carpet to prevent scratching the fixture body. Alternatively, one can use a pipe on to which to clamp the light. Also, a screen or flat white wall is required for proper alignment. A bonus is if the screen or wall can have a center dot and concentric circles at half-metre intervals.

  1.     Begin by setting the light in the cradle so that it is level and the center of the lens aligns to the screen's center point. Plug the fixture into a dimmer and reduce light output to the lowest setting that still produces a bright circle. This is to lessen the chance of lamp burnout during possible rough movement.

  2.     Moving the lenses, make the image edge sharp. For variable focus (zoom) fixtures, set the image diameter to a middle size, or if the location and use are known, to a size that suits. This will matter less with top quality units as they exhibit the same characteristics regardless of zoom setting. However, some cheaper units may vary, hence this suggestion.

        Exact alignment procedures cannot be given because they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer and sometimes from model to model. However, via either set screws or a single-control alignment adjuster, move the lamp in and out of the reflector to achieve the brightest circle on the screen. You may do a preliminary test on some models by not securing the lamp and electrical assembly in its housing and carefully moving it by hand in and out of the lamphouse while tilting it back & forth and up & down. When you see the desired brightness and degree of evenness on your alignment surface, note the position and angle of the assembly in your hand. This will give you a rough idea of where the alignment mechanism must be set.

        The hand method is not likely to be needed in modern fixtures, but for older ones, especially those with the three-screw alignment setups, it can speed the procedure. Reseat the assembly and adjust it to that point; test by moving it around by hand until it's the way you want, and continue adjustments. Secure the assembly in the lamphouse.

        Now do a fine adjustment to achieve a flat or peak field, and if peak field is chosen, where that peak occurs. This means the fixture will either produce an even illumination within its circle of light (flat), or it will have a hot spot somewhere (peak). An off-center peak spot is achieved by sideways or up & down movement of the alignment adjusters. You will see a brighter area move around within the circle.

        For theater stage washes, this hot spot occurs in the center. For key light purposes, it often is near the top of the beam to throw more light on a person's head area or face. If unsure, go with a flat field. Check your alignment again with the dimmer at the full-rated voltage of the fixture's lamp. Although not necessary, one can use a volt meter to ensure this voltage is correct. Re-adjust alignment as necessary.

You should now have a
refurbished fixture
ready for new service.

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