Topics

  Preliminary

    Types: These can take the forms of oils, greases, silicones, or waxes and polishes. They provide protection from tarnish and rust, but also create a friction-reducing layer between surfaces, so ease of movement is promoted.

    Some products stick better and longer because they are more viscous or have properties that promote adherence. In particular, greases, petroleum jelly, and thick silicone such as LPS will not run after application.

    Before Lubing: For maximum effectiveness, lubrication duties should be preceded with cleaning. Remove dirt, dust, left-over adhesives, fibre and hair buildup, spilled food or drink, and old lubricants which will likely contain grit.

    Oiled or greased parts can be wiped with an unused rag, or by using mineral spirits if they are particularly grimy. Siliconed parts can be wiped off, or use lacquer thinner to remove it completely. Be sure to first test plastics to which the thinner will contact in case it dulls or deforms them. Turn rags frequently so as to present a fresh surface. Not turning often enough may redeposit what you are trying to remove.

    Some parts, such as linear potentiometers, can be cleaned with compressed air. Be cautious regarding the amount of pressure applied, though.

    Time Frame: How often one cleans and lubricates will depend on the severity of the environment, the amount of usage of the equipment or items, and how much abuse each of them takes. Some items that seem to need regular applications might benefit from using a more viscous product or one which coating adheres longer.

  A general schedule of frequency
  based on moderate usage might be:

• Monthly or Bi-Monthly: Tools
• Semi-Yearly: Stage Lighting Fixtures, Fans, Vehicle
• Every Year: Electronics, Workshop Infrastructure
• At Time of Replacement: Air Filter and Circuit Card Guides, Lamp Sockets

  Lighting Fixtures

    Protection: When doing any maintenance on stage lighting fixtures, you must protect lamps, lenses, reflectors, and internal colour filters. Particular caution needs to be taken with coated lenses and reflectors. At the minimum, lubricants on any of the above surfaces can cause them to be compromised, thus reducing their effectiveness and efficiency. While at the maximum, their capabilities will be ruined. So either completely cover these items or move them to a safe place while doing the work.

    Cleaning: Now clean the parts to be lubricated. How this is done depends on what the part is, and whether the unit is being disassembled for an overhaul. If it is the latter, please select the appropriate link from the Lighting Fixture Maintenance Table of Contents, and follow those instructions before returning here.

    Otherwise, wipe oiled parts with an unused rag, using mineral spirits if they are particularly grimy. Siliconed parts can also be wiped off, or use lacquer thinner to remove it completely, remembering to first test its affect on plastics. Turn rags frequently so as to not redeposit what you are trying to remove.

    Buffing: If metal parts are tarnished, use a wire brush or electric buffer to bring the surfaces back to bare again. Be careful that the wire bristles do not scratch sensitive surfaces. Consider using a brush with brass bristles instead of steel, and use the side of the bristles when buffing.

    Applying Product: To lubricate, either spray directly onto the surface, or if spray back splashes or covers too far afield, use a medicine dropper or an applicator with a foam swab to absorb the lubricant and then apply. Two cautions here are to keep droppers and swabs in labeled containers so as to not mix products, and also to not use fibre swabs that might shed cotton or rayon onto your work.

    When applying grease or petroleum jelly, a large tooth pick or similar will provide more precision, and it will keep the amount deposited from becoming excessive. For large gear systems, apply with a tongue depresser. Manually operate the gear mechanism to distribute the grease and to be sure all surfaces are adequately covered.

• Threaded Parts: Fluid Film
• Fan Bearings: Olympia or Fluid Film
• Shutters: Silicone
• Lens Barrels: Silicone
• Rotating Shutter Slide Mounts: Silicone
• Moving-Light Gears: Lithium Grease or Petroleum Jelly
• Lamp Socket Contacts: High-Temperature Silicone
• Protecting Metal: Olympia
• Protecting Inaccessible Metal: Loobit

   As a stage lighting company most of the products listed on this
webpage are available through us: Purchase Lubricants and Solvents.

  Electronics

    Heat: The Number 1 enemy of electronics is heat. Maintaining proper ventilation by cleaning out dust is a start, but lubrication of moving and sliding parts is a must, as well. After removing dust and fibres from any fans, locate their main hubs or oil spouts and apply a small amount of a medium-viscousity oil. Be sure to remove any debris that falls onto the electronic circuits.

    Circuit Boards: Removable board trays should have their sliding edges cleaned and siliconed. Card contacts can be restored with a clean pencil eraser. Be gentle here with the eraser; gold is a soft metal. Brush away any eraser remnants using an anti-static brush. Before reinstalling the card, some techs will apply a coating of contact restorer, but this is unnecessary if the contacts are gold plated. For cards that are bolted in, do not over tighten because excess pressure might crack circuit boards.

    Integrated Circuits: Socketed ICs can become problematic if their leads become tarnished. Resistance increases so circuit values change and equipment begins to perform erratically. The solution is to remove each IC and carefully scrape the leads with a knife back to shiny. One may then apply with a swab a minimal amount of contact restorer before replacing the IC and moving onto the next.

    WARNING!: You are strongly cautioned to leave the above procedure to a trained tech. It should only be performed if equipment is not operating correctly and all other reasons have been eliminated. Some of the problems that can be encountered are bent leads, ICs reinserted backward, over-usage of the restorer causing contact issues of its own. Static destruction of the IC chips is possible in dry weather if one does not wear a wrist strap that bleeds away static charges.

    Other Electronic Components: Switch contacts and potentiometers should be coated with a lubricating contact restorer. Apply directly into the switch mechanisms using just small amounts so as to prevent drips on to circuit boards. A medicine dropper works better for this purpose than a spray dispenser. Operate the switch or control several times from its minimum through its maximum range immediately after application so as to aid the cleaning action, and to spread the restorer's protective coating.

    Electrical Connectors: Outlets on dimmer packs can benefit from spraying light oil into each connection opening. Do this with the power off, and keep the amount used to a minimum. You may do this to the plugs, as well. Remove tarnish from the prongs with a wire bush or buffer before applying product. These methods will help protect the contacts against corrosion, and will make plugging and unplugging go much more smoothly.

    Computers: Remember to include shop computers as part of this work. They can benefit especially from the cleaning phase due to their internal fans drawing in dust-laden shop air. If cards are removed during dry weather, it is advised to wear an anti-static wrist strap.

• Switch Contacts and Potentiometer Tracks: Nu-Trol
• IC Leads: Nu-Trol
• Fan Bearings: Olympia or Fluid Film
• Electrical Outlets and Connectors: Olympia or WD-40
• Circuit Card Trays and Tracks: Silicone
• Protecting Metal: Olympia

  Shop Equipment

    Protection: Your shop tools will work better with less wear if they are maintained. Part of this means lubricating some of them a few times a year, while others may need it after only a few uses. At the minimum, metal surfaces on drivers, pliers, hammer heads and other hand tools should be buffed and then protected against corrosion with a light oil. Use a foaming oil to reach metal surfaces that are not accessible.

    Power Tools: Moving parts require oil or grease to operate properly. This is especially true regarding power tools because they will overheat without lubrication. Lithium grease is excellent here because it can handle high temperatures. Lighter tools can use Fluid Film, as it too has a wide temperature range.

    Cutting Tools: Those implements that cut, shear, or bore will benefit from silicone or oil in that friction is reduced, thus making for an easier cut and less heat buildup. Use silicone on the blades of hand tools where oil staining the work might be a problem. Oil is preferred for drill bits because it will also draw away the heat built up during cutting. Actual cutting oils are available for this purpose, but unless you are dealing with very hard materials that take time to cut, viscous products such as 5W motor oil, mineral oil, or Fluid Film should suffice.

    Vacuum Cleaner: This should first be cleaned thouroughly. Lubricating while dust remains will form a slurry that can impede proper working. Remove the drum and empty the contents; wash the drum and all hoses thoroughly and set aside to dry. Clean or replace all filters. Those that can handle water should be washed and allowed to fully dry. Blow out the motor and its housing with compressed air; some disassembly may be required.

    Parts to lubricate with oil are the motor and casters. For the hose and fittings that slide together or rotate, use silicone.

• Threaded Parts: Fluid Film
• Fan Bearings: Olympia or Fluid Film
• Power Tool Motors and Shafts: Lithium Grease or Fluid Film
• Large Motors: Fluid Film
• Saw Blades: Silicone
• Drill Bits: Fluid Film, 5W or Mineral Oil
• Gears: Lithium Grease
• Protecting Metal: Olympia
• Protecting Inaccessible Metal: Loobit

  Workshop

    Work spaces contain many rolling, moving, and sliding parts. Keeping them in top shape makes for a non-frustrating time when there is work to be done. In addition, using silicone on lamp bases whenever they are replaced will prevent them from seizing, especially with screw-in types. Some items, such as casters, may have to be disassembled in order to reach the parts to be lubricated. As always, clean before applying lubricants.

• Counter Tops: ArmorAll or Wax
• Forced-Air Heater Fans: Fluid Film
• Vacuum Cleaner Attachments: Silicone
• Spring Handles and Catch Mechanisms: Olympia
• Rolling-Chair Mechanisms: Fluid Film
• Casters: Fluid Film
• Swing-Arm Light Mounting Studs: Silicone
• Door Latch Surfaces: Silicone
• Door Lock and Passage Mechanisms: Fluid Film
• Hinges: Fluid Film or Petroleum Jelly
• Sliding Doors and Drawers: Silicone
• Drawer Guide-Wheel Bearings: Fluid Film
• Air Filter Tracks: Silicone
• Light Sockets: Silicone
• Protecting Metal: Olympia
• Protecting Inaccessible Metal: Loobit

  Vehicle

    Outside of professional automotive repair shops which will do your oil changes and grease work, there are vehicle items that you can maintain yourself. As discussed in other categories, cleaning parts first is always a good idea.

• Door and Window Seals: Silicone
• Door Handle and Lock Mechanisms: Fluid Film
• Door Hinges: Lithium Grease
• Pneumatic Hatch Mechanisms: Fluid Film
• Seat Belt Mechanisms: Olympia
• Seat Tracks: Lithium Grease
• Padded Dash and Instrument Panel: ArmorAll
• Protecting Metal: Olympia
• Protecting Inaccessible Metal: Loobit

  Lubrication Tips

•   Clean: Old lubricants lose their effectiveness over time, and of course they get dirty. Always clean the surfaces about to be lubricated. This may mean wiping with a rag, washing with soap and water, or using a solvent. (Test surfaces first!) Metals should be cleaned of debris, then scraped, brushed or buffed bare of any tarnish.
  
  
•   Roughness: Attempt to smooth rough surfaces after cleaning. This may require sand paper or emery cloth, filing, or using a wire brush. Having surfaces be as smooth and regular as possible before applying a lubricant will provide a proper base for that lubricant to work in its most capable way.
  
  
•   Best Suited Product: Select the correct product for the work required. Surfaces that slide are usually best off with a wax/polish or a silicone, while rolling surfaces will require oil or grease. The viscousness (thickness) of the oil or grease to be used will be determined by the expected weight being carried on the bearing point(s).
  
     If the product might easily migrate away from the desired surface, consider a lubricant with foaming action that will adhere, or a more viscous product. The foaming type will also work its way into inaccessible spaces, which may be wanted if disassembly is unable to be done, or is too time consuming at that moment.
  
  
•   Swabs: When buying swabs, select foam types with wooden wands as used by electronic service centres. Swabs made of cotton or rayon can shed fibres onto your work. Non-wooden wands will flex or collapse under pressure and with repeated usage.
  
  
•   Droppers and Syringes: If spray or swabs don't work for the purpose, try medicine droppers or syringes. Use glass ones because the plastic type may be compromised by some lubricants, and likely by many solvents. Don't allow product to encroach upon the rubber bulb at the top of the dropper as it may compromise the latter. Use syringes with openings suitable for the viscousness of the product, and with plungers and seals that don't react to the products being used.
  
  
•   Storage: All lubricants are best stored around 15-degrees C. Store medicine droppers upright to prevent product from contacting the bulbs. Provide separate storage for droppers, syringes, extension nozzles, and rags so as to prevent cross-contamination. Categorise by usage for organisational reasons.
  
  
•   Clean-Up: If not wearing rubber gloves when using lubricants, wash your hands frequently in cold water. Lubricants absorbed through the skin can cause medical problems -- especially if you work with such products on a regular basis. Follow up with a good skin creme as a preventive measure regarding dry and broken skin.

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