AIEL Instructional

Tech Tips

THE KITS

As a lighting crew member or designer/director, one
should have certain things at live performances or for
rehearsals. Presented next are discussions and check
lists of kits one might wish to assemble and take along.

THE FOLLOWING MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED
WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR ©

Preliminary

Over my career I have built up kits of various types with a
variety of contents to take with me to rehearsals and/or gigs.
Trial and error has seen me change the kits and their contents
over & over as I became more experienced. Since I love to share
information, here is the benefit of my longevity in this business
regarding what to take to gigs. I hope this will remove frustration
and disappointment for you newbies that don't yet have experience.
Consider this a shortcut to professionalism. Even for long-timers,
I believe this article may be of help. Feel free to implement any
or all that you read here. It really does work. Organisation is key!

Number of Kits
Many techs will want to have an all-in-one kit, but I prefer separates so that I may pick and choose what to take with me depending on the gig type and the duties I expect to perform. I also find that an all-in-one kit is too cluttered, and if comprehensive, will be excessively large and likely heavy as well.

Consolidation
Regardless, you may wish to consolidate at least some of the separate kits discussed on this webpage into fewer ones, so feel free to combine and mix & match as desired. Your criterion should be how big and heavy you will permit one kit to become. At the minimum though, one should have distinct front-of-house and on-stage kits to save running back & forth between the two locations.

To preserve organisation when using fewer kits, make separate compartments or employ individual internal containers for each item category. As will be seen, the separate compartments/containers idea is a good strategy anyway, even when having separate kits for everything.

In a few of these articles, I have become over indulgent and included much detail; I will understand if the casual lighting tech chooses to gloss over some of this. However, for those really into the subject, I believe the detail is welcome. Read or skip as you feel. (-:

A categorised and organised kit is a pleasure with which to
work, and its implementation may reap precious seconds during
the crunch of time just before a show or during an intermission.

Duplication
You will find that some of the individual items in the list of kits presented later on will show up repeatedly. These typically are notepads, pens, markers, paper, adhesive tapes, batteries, and flashlights, but do encompass other things. In particular, a small pad and a pen placed into each of your main kits serves to make available a convenient way of noting items needing to be added or replenished. These pads are then at the ready right at an event when required additions or low stock are the most evident. Because notes are inside their related kits, after a series of shows when those kits are eventually straightened and inventoried, the notes are more likely to be acted upon.

These and other items discussed below might seem redundant until one needs to bring only a few kits to a smaller show. A duplication of internal items means that you will not have to temporarily pull things from one case into another, or be forced to bring along a kit that will have fewer of its contents used at one of these smaller shows. If you find either of these scenarios happening, consider duplicating the required items in each appropriate kit.

For larger shows and tours where most or all of the kits are taken, duplication becomes a bonus whenever additional spares become necessary. Plus, one may not need to open another kit to find a desired item. Just be sure you replace things back from exactly where they came so as to keep the integrity of contents of each case.

In relation to this repetition of items, those of you following this webpage's updates in their entirety or even only on a continual basis, may notice that the lists here will get amended from time to time as new or duplicated things are discovered and added to a particular kit. Be aware though, that I don't necessarily carry every item shown on this webpage in my kits, but that I have included them on the lists as suggestions in case one or more might be suitable for your purposes.

Thinking of the preceding, it seems logical to simply incorporate an additional item or three as opposed to bringing an entire extra kit along just to have available a few things. Such duplicated items, along with others, have been included on the lists below for those that have limited the number of kits because they have decided to put things listed under one kit into another.

Be aware that consolidation means that some kits will be mostly inappropriate for some jobs, some of the time. The advantage though, is that one need bring fewer kits along, plus one need not rethink the list of kits to bring each time. Thus, the few times when unnecessary items are brought is more than made up for by those times when one or mort of those items become needed. Be Prepared! is a good motto with which to live.

Inappropriateness
Some things may seem unsuitable for a given kit. However, they are included because from time to time I or others have had a need for one or more of them when I had a particular kit at an event. As a service to my clients, I like to have small items available should the need arise. They are simple, inexpensive things that may mean a lot to a person at a particular moment. These might encompass safety pins, batteries, a pen, paper clips, felt-tip markers, looseleaf paper, band-aids and so on. The cost is little to me but goes a long way to pleasing my clients. This can be returned as repeat business, but at the minimum, it is a good-will gesture that clients or their staff seldom forget. If you always seem to have what they need, they will more often come to you. What better business model can one have than being ready to please a client? (-:

Overkill
Reading through the lists and accompanying narratives, one may come to conclude that the shear volume of items is overkill. I actually tend to agree. However, it has been my experience that having some of the infrequently used items available at hand is a luxury that pays for itself the one or two times a season that they are needed. Some have actually contributed to my calmness at an event when I realise that I or a gopher won't have to go out to locate an item or take a possibly long trip back to our shop. On those occasions, I have been pleased that we bothered to bring along that extra case, and as mentioned, it's also a plus for client relations when I have just what they need when they need it.

Preparation
Always be prepared to please a client! All-encompassing kits go a long way at an event toward doing just that. I can't tell you how many times the smiles and relief of clients have cemented my reputation when I can provide even seemingly inconsequential items in even the smallest of ways. A pen, a battery, some tape, a paper clip -- it really does pay.

Case Types
    One could buy new cases for all of this, but I like to peruse second-hand, surplus, thrift, pawn and antique stores, or to frequent yard sales and flea markets to search for unique boxes and cases for my purposes. These could be suitcases, tool kits, briefcases, map cylinders and mailing tubes, shipping/storage containers for some long-ago product, or boxes designed to hold some piece of industrial or military equipment.

    When the price is right, I often buy cases just to have them on hand even if I have no immediate purpose for them. Eventually, I actually have ended up using many. It's great to have a case, box or tube "in stock" when I decide to incorporate a new kit or add an item to one of my existing ones. Possessing this variety means it is more likely that one of these cases will suit my intended purpose. Plus, it has spawned interesting conversations with clients when they see a unique or rare case. Personalising with him or her is a positive business step and a good relation builder. Clients like to see organised, confident persons and/or companies doing work for them. Client confidence is personified when one is prepared for any situation. Complete and organised kits are one way to do that.

Additional Case Styles
    Other suggested case types are makeup or utility ones, fishing tackle boxes, and professional still or video camera bags. The former typically have fold-out or pull-out trays, while the latter usually have multiple pockets. The number, size and types of things you intend to include will determine how appropriate a given case style might be. Regardless, collect all types for future purposes.

    Multiple cases, and boxes within boxes, keep things individualised and at the ready for any task. They avert the need to rummage through a plethora of disorganised contents to locate a necessary item. Yes, they take up more space and it requires extra time to get to an item buried several containers deep, but the organisation they provide more than makes up for that. Plus, the ease of inventorying separate cases is a breeze.

A Caution
    In recent decades, a number of inexpensive, metal-clad cases have come on the market for poker chips, barbeque sets, lawn games and so on. They look good but are usually poorly constructed and employ poor quality materials -- especially the hardware which is often weak and rusts easily. Because the cases often damage easily, you may see these at yard sales or flea markets. If you are willing to do some work, and then to be cautious with them afterward, you can acquire some inexpensive cases. Be aware though, that these case types should not be used where they might encounter rough handling or have much weight placed on top of them. As such, they are better suited for being transported inside other cases than as carry-alones. Realise though, that even these cheap, flimsy cases can provide protection if they are employed for uses that don't stress them. At the minimum, they can be used inside larger cases to separate one type of item from others.

    Along the same lines, look for damaged flight cases used by production companies. These were likely expensive cases when new and so could provide the best protection if they were to be restored. Most times, the cases have broken or missing hardware and/or damaged or missing edging. Some may have perforated sides. Simply remove the broken or missing items and replace them by purchasing from the nearest case company. Or, make one good case out of two bad ones. Clean tape and writing off, and repaint as necessary for a robust case that will be useful once again.

Having these kits at the ready and they being internally
classified is a plus for any lighting tech. They make it
easier for your pick-up crew to quickly locate things.
As well, a qualified appearance is presented to your
clients when you show up organised and ready to work.
Remember: Professional techs are prepared for any situation;
striving for organisation brings one closer to that
goal, and reaching it impresses your clients and workers.

General

Case Selection and Internal Divisions
When the need for a kit or internal container arises, decide upon a case from your inventory. Logically, the style to select should be based upon its suitability for the usage required. Be sure it is large enough to allow for expansion as you come to think of more things to include. For every main case, allow space not for the items themselves, but for the internal containers that will hold those selected items.

Throwing things anywhere into a case is fine when there are only three of them, but as a given kit grows, it becomes disarranged and a time waster when one has to search through items not required at that moment. Being able to place one's hands directly on to a desired item is worth it's weight in gold when time is short.

Beginning right away with partitions and internal classification makes for an attractive, categorised case. It also means that missing or out-of-place items are more likely to be noticed when each division within a larger case holds fewer things.

In the future, you will be happy that you had started to compartmentalise at the beginning because as your kits expand, they will have already been prepared in advance to accept new items. With expansion room, one rarely has to change to a larger main case when new items come to be added. Being forced to make such a change means having to endure the time squandered converting to a new case what till then had already been organised inside a smaller case. One's comfort level also diminishes when a new case layout has to be gotten used to. Advance planning should eliminate most case switching. This all means a more competent presentation to clients and, as already discussed, the fast location of an item when time is of the essence.

If you must ponder changing to a larger case, consider placing the old one inside of a newer case. That preserves the original layout and case feel, but it still allows room for new items -- and it keeps like items together.

Internal Containers
To further facilitate the design and classification of any kit, decide what is to be incorporated and into which compartment each item, or groups of items, will go. Then choose containers to house individual or like things within a given compartment -- or even allow the containers to be the compartments. These will not only help with organisation, but will provide protection during transit. Internal containers might be:

Cardboard Boxes
Sealable Bags
File/Recipe/Index-Card Boxes
Jewellery and Cosmetic Cases
Small Caddies for Tools and Parts
Craft Boxes
Pencil Boxes
Resealable Boxes used for Bulk Hardware
Cookie and Candy Tins (Preferably Rectangular)
Floppy-Disc, Video-Cassette and CD/DVD Boxes
Zippered CD-Wallets
Resealable Bottles and Cans used for Foods, Medicines or Toothpicks
35-mm Film Cans
Tobacco/Chocolate Tins
Product Containers (Especially Hard Plastic Ones)
Snap-Lid Storage Containers

I buy the latter or collect the same as used to hold food products. I like to use these to store batteries because they protect against contamination in the event of leakage. Be wary of cheap variations; the lids can be ill fitting and/or have weak snap closures that pop open with even a slight flexing of the container's sides. Others have thin hinges that break after a few uses. Test before you buy, if possible. Some of the better food ones hold berries. Beware those with vent holes if leakage of your chosen contents might be, or become, a problem.

Other types applicable for use as internal organisers are boxes for hand wipes, diapers or for mop-wipe replacements. These are usually made from durable plastic with removable, but reusable, covers -- some with wide, snap-closing tops. Try for robust, transparent covers so that contents are visible. Robustness is important because if the contents are heavy, weak covers will cave in under pressure when boxes are stacked.

As listed previously, consider Product Cases, especially transparent ones. These might be ones made for Watches, Personal Music Systems, or Audio/Video/Data Cassettes. Hardshell Eyeglass Cases are great for little items such as flashdrives or small tools. Save the boxes in which bulk hardware comes. The best ones use see-through plastic with snap lids. Remove the labels by soaking in hot water, or if you can be careful not to over do it, use a heat gun. For holding the smallest items that you might want to take with you, consider multi-compartment boxes meant for spools of thread or assortments of needles and pins.

Search the travel accessories section in drugstores for toiletry containers that might be appropriate. Some stationery stores have transparent boxes holding paperclips and push pins. Use them as is with the supplied contents, or empty them and use the containers for other purposes. Realise though, that too often the cheap versions of these types of boxes can have weak closures, so bind these with an elastic band to secure for transit. When unwrapping, place the band into the larger case so it won't be lost or forgotten. Never lay it down outside the case. Carry extra elastics inside the cases that use them -- organised in their own little box, of course! (-: In addition, consider dental floss boxes. Remove the inserts and use these snap-lidded boxes to hold small stationery items.

Finally, tins for chocolates, nuts, cookies, or tobacco might be used. Select square or rectangular box types over the round style. They pack with less wasted space than round ones. Use bulk tobacco canisters to hold items that are affected by atmospheric moisture. These cans are airtight. Regardless of types chosen, tops should always be resealable and secure. Air them well before usage if the original contents' odours are an issue.

Your Collection
Begin now to gather all these case and container types; you will soon find that a purpose will arise where they can be employed. Whenever you have time to kill, peruse the aisles of fabric, drug, grocery, stationery and craft stores. Turn a blind eye toward the labels and products within; instead, look at the containers. Remember those that might be useful to you. Even if you don't buy the merchandise on the spot, you might consider doing so in the future.

Become aware of the products used by friends and coworkers; ask for their empty containers. This saves buying products that are possibly of no use to you or not worth the price, given your intended usage. After reception, remove their labels, and clean and place them into storage. Possessing a ready inventory means you can immediately grab an appropriate container to fulfil a need and quickly complete a case's internal arrangement. Review your container inventory from time to time to keep styles and sizes fresh in your mind.

Labels and Inventory Lists
Always identify each case and its internal containers with labels so that those unfamiliar with your kits won't have to look into unnecessary ones while trying to locate something -- or to find the location to replace that same something. If contents never or rarely vary, attach an inventory list to the inner lid or at least keep one inside a plastic report cover within. This is most helpful at the end of a gig in keeping track of items that are prone to getting lost or left behind. Plus it may deter a dishonest pick-up crew member from considering theft of something that will be tallied at the end of an event.

Below are Twenty Suggested Kits

Not everything may be acceptable to you
or your required tasks. Choose from these
lists, removing or adding items to suit.

Blacks Kit Cable/Adaptor Kit Chain Kit	Colour Kit Designer Kit Floorbase Kit
Hardware Kit Hand Cleaning Kit Lamp Kit	Marker Kit Pattern Kit Power Distro Kit
Cordage Kit Solder Kit Supplies Kit Table Cloth Kit	Tape Kit Toolkit Wood Shim Kit Worklight Kit

Think about e-mailing your suggestions
to be considered for inclusion here.

Blacks Kit:
This is simply a case with assorted sizes of cloth. They can be used to hide otherwise visible equipment or to dress up a case or box upon which some piece of gear has been placed. The typical fabric colour used will be black (hence the name of the kit), but other colours can and are used. Most will want to combine this kit with the Table Cloth Kit.
- Black Cloths and Small Drops
- Clothespins or Bulldog/Binder Clips
- Stage Tape
- Staple Gun and Spare Staples
- Staple Remover
- Thumb Tacks
Cable/Adaptor Kit:
This is not for main cables, but for short jumpers, two-fers, twist-to-whatever adaptors, and so on. (Two-fers are cables with one male and two female connectors.)
- 1, 2, 3, and 5-Metre Jumpers
- Two and Three-Fers
- Breakout Adaptors
- Twist/Stage-Pin/U-Ground Adaptors
- Cube and Other Electrical Taps
- Ground Lifters
- Switched and Non-Switched Power Bars
- Circuit Tester
Chain Kit:
Chains are handy for hanging or wrapping items, and when combined with pipes fitted with eyebolts, one can use the combination to span spaces so as to obtain hang points for lights in smaller venues. Chains can be used as heavier-duty safety cables as necessary. Use one snap (spring) hook at each end that is rated for more than the load, and be sure the chain is welded link. As for size, 1-metre lengths are preferred, as are welded links. Twisted links are just not safe enough.
- Welded-Link Chain Lengths with Snap Hooks
- Extra Snap Hooks and Quick Links
- Extra Chain Lengths
- Eye Screws
- Bolt (Chain) Cutters
Colour Kit:
    My Colour Kit has been set up to allow me to go into a venue with little to no advance planning and be able to choose gel to fit the occasion. This means having a wide selection of colours. In addition, for smaller shows where gel does not travel in the cases containing the lights, I keep the latter's frames and gel in here.

    The main box is an aluminum-edged suit-cased sized case with a carrying handle and snap catches. Inside, accordion files hold cut sheets of gel for the sizes of the typical fixtures I encounter. These are typically 19-centimetre square sizes for 150mm fresnels, ellipsoidals and PAR 56s, and 25-centimetre square sizes for PAR 64s and 200mm fresnels. They are categorised by colour & number. Envelopes could be used if your stock is smaller, or they could be used outside of the accordion files to hold smaller numbers of odd sizes. Extra gel frames are kept in here in case an additional fixture is encountered or I want to change colours during a show. It's easier to exchange frames pre-loaded with colour than to re-frame the gel for each change.

    A gel cutter, scissors or knife is used to cut new gel, or to reduce large, cut sizes down to smaller ones while on the road. A white gel pen marks the catalog number on newly-cut gel but is also used to re-mark old gel when the designations get rubbed off. A black felt-tip pen is used to designate lighter colours where a white gel pen's marks might be hard to discern.

    The clips can hold loose gel to fixtures or to barndoors when a frame holder is unsuitable or unavailable. I find that large, wooden clothespins work well. Swatch books are needed as references for my colours and number designations. One may also use one as a design aid during free time, and to show a sample to interested parties. The soft cloth and polish are needed to clean up dirty or scratched gel. (See "Rejuvenation" under Colour Media Maintenance.)

    Uncut sheets of gel that have been rolled up are secured in the lid via elastic straps. I store few gel rolls here due to the space they consume. However, I do carry about half a dozen of the most frequent colours that I use. I could pre-cut those rolls, but I prefer to leave them as is in case I need odd sizes of common colours.
    In addition, the kit includes a few spring clamps, a can of flat black spray paint, plus some additional markers and catalogue items.

    I also prefer to transport my case for lighting patterns and their accessories within the Colour Kit enclosure as opposed to transporting separately. (See Pattern Kit for a description.)
- Sheets/Rolls and Cut-to-Size Gel
- Accordion Files for Cut Gel
- Gel Frames appropriate for the Lights in your Show
- Extra Gel Frames
- Gel Swatch Books (Ordered by Number, Colour and Percent)
- Gel Cutters
- Retractable Razor Knife (Box Cutter)
- Scissors
- Straight Edge or Ruler
- Cutting Board
- Gel Marker or Pencil
- Fine-Point, Felt-Tip Markers
- Polish and Soft Cloth
- Clips (Wooden Clothespins)
- Spring Clamps
- Flat Black Spray Paint
- Clipboard or Clip Binder with a Low-Profile Clip
- Spare Paper for the Clipboard
- Pens
- Ruler
- Pattern Kit
Designer Kit:

The Need:     I like to start my lighting design process by going to early or middle rehearsals after the main elements of a show or an act have been decided upon. I do this so as to get into the spirit of a show/act and to think about the lighting while a production gets moulded toward a completed presentation. Of course I need some way to remember my initial and subsequent ideas. Plus, I must be able to compile requests and suggestions from the producer, director, choreographer, and even from individual actors, musicians, singers and dancers. (I am always open to comments from anyone -- it all helps to finalise my design. In particular, actors are often surprised when I solicit their opinions. For more on my design style, see: On Stage Lighting Design )

    In addition, note taking is required for technical information regarding the venue, its stage, electrical distribution, support facilities, and also for the contact information of the personnel involved and with whom I come in contact. Even if I already have this in my computer, one or more of the particulars may have changed, and so must be recorded. ...and of course, I also need to record my first impressions regarding the lighting design. (After all, that is why I am there!)

Kit Genesis:
    I didn't always have an organised and comprehensive Designer Kit. Here is that story:

    Beginning initially with only a clipboard & pen, I quickly decided that I should take along a gel swatch (sample) book. At first, I placed these items into a plastic bag, but then after adding extra pens and a ruler, I switched to a more durable canvas-style shopping bag. As it came to encompass more items, I found a bag to not be easily organisable; I was always pushing things aside to try to locate what I wanted; it was dark in there, too. Plus, because of the open top and non-rigid design, it was prone to having an item fall out or even a complete spilling of its contents. Its death knell sounded was when I discovered that these shopping bags had become so common that they were easily mistaken for similar bags I or others might have. A moment of inattention could result in taking the wrong bag. I needed a better method.

An Improvement:     Since that early day, I have graduated to a pebble-grained, aluminum-edged briefcase with separate pockets and compartments. Not only has it more capacity than a canvas shopping bag, it maintains separation of each of the items I carry so as to facilitate easier location and selection. Because I gained space, I placed additional useful items in there. I have even included things that I don't use very often for almost no other reason than it's nice to have them, and as discussed farther back, I now carry typical, small items a client or his/her staff might request.

    As a result, this kit has evolved into a secondary purpose; it's become a compact, on-the-road office along with being a support case for rehearsals and eventually, performances. So it now accompanies me to the show itself because it has come to house my lighting plots and dimmer patches on a convenient, enclosed clipboard/binder. It also has basic light focusing tools and other items I find useful at gigs.

Productivity:     My work has become easier; I am more efficient and productive because not only do I have things at the ready to assist me in the designing process when I attend rehearsals, I am also ready to record details of the initial meetings. Then later it is useful at the show itself due to the extra items able to be brought along in this larger case versus the smaller bag that once accompanied me. I could now never return to that shopping bag! In addition, the aluminum cladding suits the entertainment industry, and because it is a briefcase-style case, it says "business!". Before I brought a kit with me for those initial design stages, I had to wait till I returned to my office or home to further develop ideas and to devise a working light plot. After I began to use it at rehearsals and take it to the shows themselves, the Designer Kit evolved; every time I discovered an item to be lacking, I added it so as to eventually arrive at the inventory seen after these comments. In addition, I have placed some extras on the list that may be useful in this kit for some, but which I actually carry elsewhere.

Case Style:     My chosen case had previously been used as an electronic technician's repair kit. It has a removable pallet (back-board) stowed in the top of the case to which are attached two rows of separate pockets originally meant for tools. In this case's new role, these pockets are ideal for holding many of the small items I use, while at the same time keeping them separated and immediately accessible. Behind this board is housed a six-compartment, letter-size accordion file used to hold notepads, pattern and gel catalogues, and looseleaf and grid paper. Along with those is a selection of various sized envelopes. I carry one spare "Lighting Designer" and several "Crew" stage passes on lanyards in there as well. The bottom section of the case is sponge cushioned and has built-in, re-configurable dividers to further arrange what I carry.

    Because of this case design's versatility, all main items are on display for effortless choosing. It really speeds things up compared to my past routine of digging into a dark bag and pushing aside unwanted articles to get to what I actually want. I love the relaxed, easy selection of items!

Alternate Case Styles:     If an aluminum briefcase of this type is unavailable, too expensive, or not to your taste, go to a second-hand store to buy an attache case, business portfolio, or a small, hard-shell suitcase. Look for one at the minimum that has a compartment or stretch-fabric hammock in the top. Some attache cases have an accordion file built into that location, plus have partitions in the bottom section. Perfect!

Dividers:     If not, modify the bottom of the case to include additional cubicles by installing one or more dividers. These can be made from thin wood or wallboard. Sheet metal may be used, but make sure to pad the edges to protect your hands from sharp edges. Dividers should be tall enough to reach the case top or internal backboard when the case is closed so as to contain each compartment's contents during transit.

    Paint the dividers for a more professional, finished look. Fortunately, my technician's tool kit already had various-length, adjustable, front/back and side divider panels with it. Each divider is removable and has multiple slots spaced 1.5 centimetres apart in which to insert the edge of another divider. As such, almost any internally-sized cubicle can be had.

    An alternative to dividers is to use rectangular, plastic bins such as those meant for kitchen drawer organisers or for shop storage -- if you can find any with acceptable dimensions. Try to get ones that will touch the top of the case when it is closed so that contents will not be spilled when the case is turned to any position other than flat on its bottom. If necessary, buy bins that are too tall and then shave them to size. Always smooth cut edges with emery cloth or sand paper to protect your hands during usage. For some reason, rental companies don't like blood on their lighting desks. (-:

Contents:     Below are items to consider for inclusion into a Designer Kit. Some may appear to be excessive or unnecessary, or to belong in another kit, but seeing them listed here might inspire you to fit them into your particular requirements and/or style of on-the-road designing or work. I have added a laptop/netbook to this section although I actually have a dedicated case for mine. This is because I rarely take my laptop to preliminary meetings and rehearsals.
- Clipboard or Clip Binder with a Low-Profile Clip
- Blank and Ruled Paper, 3-Hole Punched
- Graph (Grid) Paper, 3-Hole Punched
- Cue Sheet Blanks (See Cue Tips)
- Accordion File Folder with 4 to 6 Pockets
- Felt-Tip Markers with Fine and Chisel Points
- Pens
- Pencils
- Eraser
- Pencil Sharpener
- Ruler
- Calculator
- Transparent Tape with Small Dispenser
- Gel Swatch Books. (In Colour, Numerical and Percentage Order)
- Pocket-Sized Gel Catalogue
- Razor-Blade Type Gel Cutters
- Retractable Knife
- Lighting Patterns Catalogue or Pocket-Sized Version
- Flashlight and/or Clip-On Booklight (For Use in a Dark House)
- Belt Clip for Flashlight
- Spare Batteries (In a Sealable Bag, in Case of Leakage)
- Extra, Sealable Bags for Spent Batteries
- Spare Flashlight and/or Replacement Lamp
- Measuring Tape (5 - 8 Metre)
- Notepad
- Sticky Notes
- Small, Zippered, 3-Ring Organiser with Pockets and Tabbed Sections
- Spare Organiser Paper
- Envelope Selection
- Ruled-One-Side Index Cards
- Elastic Bands
- Safety Pins
- Paper Clips
- Thumbtacks or Push Pins
- Bulldog and/or Binder Clips
- Mini Stapler and Spare Staples
- Magnifying Glass
- Laptop or Netbook (Handy if Skipping the Paper-Design Stage)
- If not the above, a Personal Organiser
- Lighting-Instrument Template. (Useful if a Laptop/Netbook is not Taken)
- Floppy Discs or Flashdrives to Back Up Laptop or Lighting Board
- Cases to Protect/Store Floppy Discs or Flashdrives
- Lighting Instrument Multitool
- Marking Tape for the Lighting Board
- Business Cards (Always be Ready to Promote Yourself!)
- Business Card Holder (Keeps Cards from becoming Dog-Eared)
- Ear Plugs (For Loud Bands in Small Rehearsal Spaces)
- Hand Lotion (For Dry Venues)
- Eye Drops (For Dry Venues)
- Hand Sanitizer
- Eyeglass Case to Hold Sun or Eyeglasses (or even Flashdrives)
- Calendar
- Band-Aids
- Clip-On Tie (For when I Need to Look Dressier (-:)
Floorbase Kit:
If your designs or work often call for placing lighting fixtures on the floor, a table, speaker cabinets, etc., a Floorbase Kit may be useful. Decide upon the number of bases you tyoically use and then select a case that can handle that number plus two spares.

Floorbases come in various styles, shapes and sizes. We make our own flat-bottomed style in one size only using robust stair tread with bottom-recessed, off-set hardware studs. This makes for a much lower profile, and the area size can be smaller without the base tipping over when an extended light is mounted. The box chosen to house them is a small suitcase-style flight case that can accommodate two bases side by side and a dozen in total.
- Floorbases in Various Sizes
- Selection of Spare, Plated Hardware
- Two Wrenches to Fit the Hardware
- Flat Black Spray Paint (for touchups)
- Newspapers (useful when painting)
Hardware Kit:
    At the very least, one should have a compartmentalised box with nuts, bolts, washers, screws and other spare hardware for items in your show, and to fit the accessories and tools accompanying it. One of those plastic toolkits with various sections works well, but I prefer a fishing tackle box because it has even more compartments, and on several levels. In addition, one can purchase smaller, snap-lid, compartmentalised boxes to bolster what the tackle box provides. Select boxes that will fit in the bottom of the tackle box, if possible. An alternative is a makeup caddy; it also has compartments on several levels that fold up when the case is closed.

    Smaller boxes can be bought with hardware assortments already stocked in them. This is a good way to start a hardware kit. As certain popular sizes get used, they can be replaced as necessary by buying in bulk. The remaining sizes not used will still always be ready for the few times they get called upon. As they grow in number, one can buy a larger hardware case in which to place these boxes. Thus one can build up a kit slowly and only to the size actually needed.

    Always purchase plated hardware to prevent rust and the seizure of threaded sections. (See Hardware Organisation in the Tips Grabbag.)
- Selection of Plated Hardware
- Two Adjustable Wrenches
- Nails and a Small Claw Hammer
- Can of Spray Lubricant
- Rags
Hand Cleaning Kit:
In how many venues have you been where washroom supplies are at a minimum or non existent? The solution is a small hand cleaning kit to personally tidy one's self and become refreshed after a setup or long rehearsal.
- Bar Soap in a Water-Tight Travel Box
- Nail Scrub Brush
- Paper Towels
- Nail Clipper
- Nail File
- Toilet Paper
- Moist Towelettes
- Hand Lotion
- Hand Sanitizer
- Sunblock
- Comb and/or Brush
- Tooth Brush and Paste/Powder
- Dental Floss
- Band-Aids
- Electric Razor
Lamp Kit:
Of course, one should have spare lamps. Have at least one for each type & wattage in your show, plus ones for work and flashlights. If no other case has flashlights or their accessories, spare batteries and a charger should be considered for this kit. The alcohol and tissues are for cleaning quartz halogen (HAY-loh-jenn) lamps; their bulb surfaces cannot be touched without the result of shortening lamp life due to contamination from skin oils. Alcohol removes the oil and any dirt transferred to the bulb surface should it get touched.
- Spare Lamps for Fixtures and Worklights in your Typical Show
- Alcohol (Methanol is Preferred)
- Soft Tissues
- White Electrical Tape (For Date Tagging)
- Fine Point, Felt Tip Marker (For Date Tagging)
- Notepad
- Pens
Marker Kit:
I like to mark my lighting board in a colourful, detailed way. This kit contains the items necessary to do so.
- White Masking or Wide Electrical Tape
- Colour-Coding Tape
- White Pinstripe Tape (Used to Group Board Channels)
- Glow Tape
- Fine Point, Felt-Tip Markers in Various Colours
- Ruler
- Pens
- Pencils
- Eraser
- Gel Marker
- Notepad
- Sticky Notes
- Clipboard or Clip Binder
- Scissors
Pattern Kit:
    If pattern (gobo) projection is part of your design or show, this kit will fit your requirements. One should stock in here an inventory of typical stainless-steel patterns in the event of requests. Have them organised by category with each type in its own box or envelope.

Storage:     For internal storage boxes, I recommend floppy disc or CD/DVD containers. The better ones are those that snap securely shut and are transparent, or at least, lightly-translucent. A number of the smaller type meant to hold two 1.44 MB floppy discs will each organise and house half a dozen or more `B' size patterns, depending on whether they are new or used. (Used patterns will warp and bulge somewhat from heat, taking up a thicker space.) Being able to see through the case means easier selection even though each will be labelled.

    In addition, or as an alternative, one might have numbers of lockable, plastic bags of a size suitable to hold the patterns being stored. Use a heavy gauge plastic so that sharp pattern edges won't cut into the bag. Label these bags as to the pattern type within. Typical categories might be:
- Breakups
- Doors
- Foliage
- Snowflakes
- Stars
- Water
- Windows
    Write each designator at the top of the bag so that one can quickly leaf through to find the category required.

    Your selection of individual containers or bags can be kept in one or more of those large storage boxes once used in offices for floppy or compact disc archiving. They have flip tops and internal dividers with tabs on which one can place label categories. It is suggested that your categories be arranged in alphabetical order for further ease of choice. Select a box with a secure lid so it won't unexpectedly flip open and spill its contents. Since these boxes are usually made from brittle plastic, they should be kept within a larger case for protection during transit. For my Pattern Kit, I actually chose a small, plastic jewellery box with aluminum edging and a transparent top. It is described in more detail farther on.

Storage Alternatives:     If the numbers of patterns taken with you is few, an alternative to any of the above is to employ a small recipe or card-file box instead. Either will comfortably hold a dozen or so of used, thicker patterns. They often come with tabbed dividers which can be used to separate patterns into categories. Some type of dividers are recommended because used patterns tend to snag onto one another and can be damaged during selection if one is careless.

An Alternative:     You may decide instead to use a three-ring binder with plastic page inserts meant for photos or floppy discs. Binders come in a wide range of sizes so they can hold a small or large number of patterns in one convenient book. Stiff, tabbed inserts can be used to categorise the collection. A disadvantage to this latter alternative is that patterns can slip out of their pockets during flipping of the pages and even when just carrying the book. To reduce that chance, choose a binder with a locking flap that holds tightly closed. Store and transport the binder in an upright position.

Combining with Another Kit:     Since a Pattern Kit is usually small, you may think about combining it with another kit, as I have done. Mine fits in a bottom corner of my Colour Kit case where it is protected during transit. Protection is required because I use a plastic jewellery box with a transparent, hinged top as a Pattern Kit. It does have however, a secure snap catch.

    Inside are two sliding trays closing over a full-sized compartment underneath. Each tray comfortably fits four of the small, translucent floppy-disc boxes I use for `B' size patterns, as described previously. An individual box contains one type of pattern, generally with at least two examples. The duplication means spares, but two or more can be used at the same time to fill a larger backdrop or stage, or used in tandem to present a layered pattern effect, either opposing or pleasingly combined.

    In the bottom compartment are a marker, notepad and small pair of surgical scissors that can cut stainless steel. In addition are more of the floppy boxes for a total of sixteen or so in the kit, representing an inventory of likely 50 or more patterns. This is because I want to have a large selection on the road. Since I have such a large number, there is no room for pattern holders, so I keep the latter in the Colour Kit itself. I could go for a larger box, but I like this one's transparent top and sliding trays; so I keep it despite the fact that it won't fit the holders unless I were to reduce the number of patterns I carry.
- Inventory of Typical Patterns
- Pattern Holders to fit Your Show's Fixtures
- Floppy Disc or CD/DVD Boxes and Files
- Lockable, Plastic Bags for Extra Patterns
- Fine Point, Felt-Tip Marker
- Surgical Scissors (Capable of Cutting Stainless Steel)
- Patterns Catalogue
- Ruler
- Notepad
- Pen
Power Distro Kit:
This is not to provide power distribution for a whole show; it is one that contains 15 or 20 amp common cables and electrical boxes with outlets for worklights, front-of-house or stage backline power provision.

The main original idea for this kit was to supply power for worklights at front-of-house (FOH) judges' tables for competitive programs. As discussed in the Worklight Kit section, I didn't used to provide worklights for this purpose. However, I eventually had to exercise control over light spilling from that position when others showed up with unsuitable fixtures. Supplying acceptable worklights meant running appropriate cabling to them. Because of requests, this evolved into also making power available for laptops, phone chargers, and so on at that FOH position. I now provide all of this which not only is a desired service by my clients, but also gives me the control I need over unwanted spill light.
- Dual-Outlet Boxes with 2-Metre Cords and Daisy Chain Connectors
- Three-Way Power Taps (Cubes)
- Short Extension Cords
- Non-Switched Power Bars
- Outlet Tester
- Ground Lifters
Cordage Kit:
I always seem to need to tie or clamp things: Curtains, cables, doors when loading or unloading vehicles, and so on. I also use rope to cordon areas from time to time. In addition, all cables (except short jumpers) have leather ties attached to the female ends so as to allow binding when they are coiled for storage, but also to tie the cable off when in use. I keep a selection of cordage and ties in a kit for these purposes, plus as replacements for ones that break or get lost at a gig. A heavy rope with a noose is also kept here. It is used to haul lights up to dead-hung locations.

If planning to cut cordage, be sure to buy a closed-weave product such as gangion or sash cord. A selection of spring clamps might kept in this kit, as well.
- Rope
- Sash Cord
- Gangion Cord
- Nylon Cord
- Leather Ties
- Twine
- String
- Retractable Knife
- Spring Clamps
- Propane Torch and Wood Block. (Will Cauterise Cut Nylon Rope)
- Assorted Length Cords with Hooks or Loops
- Bungee Cords or Rubber Straps with Hooks
Solder Kit:
If you do any soldering on the road, obtain some or all of the items below. In particular, I recommend haemostats. Because they lock, they can hold items hands free, and they can be used as a heatsink. Good quality ones are well chromed and so solder does not stick. For a good buy, seek out hobby stores that sell used medical versions. These are the utmost quality and strength, but are a fraction of their new price.
- Soldering Gun (In a Protective Case)
- Soldering Iron (In a Protective Case)
- Soldering Iron Holder
- Roll or Coil of Electronics Solder
- Haemostats (Or Small, Locking Pliers)
- Heat Sinks
- Small Vice with a Clamp Base
- Heat Shrink
- Heat Gun
- Extension Cord for the Gun or Iron
- Extension Cord for the Heat Gun or Tap for the Above
- Electrical Tape
Supplies Kit:
This is a case that I take to larger shows. At 60 centimetres square, it is the largest of the kits listed here. The front removes completely to reveal four drawers of varying heights. These are subdivided by internal boxes I have added, but the top drawer also has its own built-in, longitudinal dividers.

Much of this case's contents may be found in other ones listed here, but it serves the purpose of a somewhat all-in-one kit, and it has items that are too large for other kits.
- Soldering Kit and Stand
- Automotive Trouble Light
- Staple Gun and Staples
- Rivet Gun and Rivets
- Crimp Tool and Connector Selection
- Larger Diameter, Longer Rope
- Padlocks and Keys, with Chain
- Larger Flashlights (D-Cell)
- Spare Batteries
- Spare Flashlight Lamps
- Sealable Bags for Spent Batteries
- Spare Electrical Connectors
- Ground Lifters
- Selection of Main Electrical Panel Fuses
- Small, Vacuum-Base Vice
- Work Gloves
- Stage Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Colour-Coding Tape
- Flat Black Spray Paint
- Cardboard Pieces to use as Painting Masks
- Can of Spray Lubricant
- Electric Drill
- Inductive Current Meter
- Other Electrical Testers
- Larger Hardware: Eyebolts/Screws, Clevises, Spring Links, S-Hooks, etc.
- Clock
- Cable Ties
- Selection of Stiff Wire
- Selection of Perforated Strapping
Table Cloth Kit:
If you light a lot of displays or trade-show booths, this kit is a must. Many will want to combine this with the Blacks Kit, but I have found that a separate kit suits my purposes better. The "Table Edge Dressing" listed here typically consists of a pleated skirt that is attached to a table via velcro, staples or clips. The "Plexiglass Display Stands" are those curved or folded, transparent, plastic pedestals or brochure holders.

To add contrast to a table display, one can use the "Squares of Cloth" on which to place items. These are usually made of velveteen or felt and are about 25 centimetres square. Choosing a colour that contrasts with the table cloth allows an item to stand out more readily. One can use them to visually organise a crowded table or display by using the same colours for like items. Orienting some with one point out will present a diamond pattern to the viewer as opposed to laying all cloths out as squares.
- Selection of Table Cloths in Various Colours
- Selection of Felt Squares of Cloth in Various Colours
- Table Edge Dressing
- Plexiglass Display Stands
- Clothespins or Bulldog/Binder Clips
- Stage Tape
- Staple Gun and Spare Staples
- Staple Remover
- Thumb Tacks
Tape Kit:
    Although various adhesive tapes will likely be contained within other kits, you may wish to carry one dedicated solely to tape and accessories. See also the -Stage Tape article in our Purchase Guide.

    Although Colour-Coding tape is listed separately, with the availability of coloured duct, masking and electrical tapes, one can choose any of those for the purpose of coding items by colour.

    Note that the Carpet Tape listed is not the type with glue on both sides. It is a wide tape meant to be placed over top of cables running across carpeted areas.
- Stage Tape -- for Heavy-Duty Tape Tasks
- Duct Tape -- for Light-Duty Uses or for Colour Coding
- Masking Tape in Various Colours
- Glow Tape
- Clear Packing Tape
- Carpet Tape (Use 75mm width for Cable Taping)
- Electrical Tape in Various Colours
- Colour-Coding Tape
- Scissors
- Retractable Razor Knife (Box Cutter)
- Felt-Tip Markers
- Heat Gun (To Aid in Removing Old Tape)
- Varsol or Other Light-Duty Solvent for Glue Removal
- Industrial Paper Towels for the Above
Toolkit:
    Of course, one needs tools for any job. Always buy plated tools because moisture will be an issue on the road. Plated tools won't rust. Even so, a light coating of oil on each is still recommended. Place them into a toolbox large enough to accommodate new tools as you buy them. I like the "hip roof" type that opens into several levels, each with a number of compartments. In the large bottom section, I have smaller boxes for a socket set, crimp set, and hardware selections, plus trays for scissors, pliers and so on.

    The lamp tester listed below consists of a U-ground, duplex outlet in an 11-10 electrical box. The latter is a smooth, surface-mount box with electrical knockouts, mounting holes, and tabs for attaching a cover plate. Inside is a 9-volt battery connector which is in series with the outlet and an LED (Light-Emitting Diode). This LED is mounted through one of the small holes in the box so that it is visible from the outside. In addition is a momentary, push-button switch that shorts the outlet to test the LED/battery combination. There is purposely no resistor in series so that I may use spent batteries that are down to around 3 or 4 volts -- perfect for an LED. I can plug in any light to the outlet and the LED will light if there is continuity through the fixture, the lamp, the battery and LED.

    Substitute an outlet suitable for use with your country's electrical connectors. You may also wish to substitute a four-pack, AA cell holder if you wish to use spent double-A cells. Either the AA-pack or 9-volt battery may be attached to the 1110 box with cable ties through the box's small, mounting holes. This makes for a quick and simple lamp/fixture tester.
- Tools to fit every Nut, Bolt and Screw Head in your Show
- Multitool in Holster
- Socket Set
- Rivet Gun and Rivets
- Crimp Tool and Connector Selection
- Hardware Assortments
- Parts Containers with Small Hardware and Odds & Ends
- Electrical Tester or Meter
- Outlet Tester
- Lamp Tester
- Cable Ties
- 3-Way Power Tap
- Flashlights
- Spare Batteries
- Spare Flashlight Lamps
- Extra Sealable Bag for Spent Batteries
- Battery Charger
- Small-Gauge Extension cord for the Battery Charger
- Ground Lifters
- Work Gloves
- Measuring Tape
- Staple Gun with Spare Staples
- Stage Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Colour-Coding Tape
- Flat Black Spray Paint
- Cardboard Pieces to use as Painting Masks
- Spray Oil
- Contact Cleaner
- Silicone Spray
Wood Shim Kit:
It seems that I often need wood blocks to allow pipe clamps to attach to thin girders, pipes or beams. Wood should be hardwood to prevent splitting from the force of a tightened clamp. Blocks of wood can be handy for other purposes from holding doors open to using as a work surface on which to solder, pound, or cauterise rope.
- Wood Blocks
- Wood Lengths
- Tapered Wood Shims
- Small Wood Saw
Worklight Kit:

The Problem:     At almost every middle to major show I do, one or more persons seem to need general light backstage or at front-of-house positions. Others might require direct light on a script or music score, as well. Now, it should not be my job to provide non stage lights, but I have made it mine because invariably if I leave it up to the needy person(s), some high-wattage fluorescent fixture or living-room light gets used. Of course, these spew light everywhere and dilute my on-stage looks.

    Light can also spill into the audience or on to something off stage that I don't want, or it becomes visible to audience members whenever a door is opened or a curtain parted. Front-of-house locations, such as judges' tables, are even worse because the light shines back directly into the eyes of the audience.

    An alternative to household lights, they think, is to use a flashlight. Invariably though, it gets shone into people's eyes, the roving beam is a distraction to an audience, and when it gets laid down it is often left on to beam somewhere else it is unwanted. Then if the batteries weaken and die, who gets called?... )-: The worst is when an LED flashlight with no shielding is used. These units are a bright point source, and with no shielding they vomit light everywhere.

The Answer:     A worklight kit will solve this problem. My chosen fixtures are photographic-style clamp-ons with aluminum reflectors that are narrow and deep. These provide good shading of the light source so as to emit a more focused circle of light. Line cords are two metres in length to reduce the need for extension cords. Models with wider reflectors may be used if you want a larger area covered, but be aware that shading will not be as good.

    In addition, I have four clamp-lights with long goosenecks that are more suitable for table lighting because they can be angled right down on to the surface even when clamped horizontally to the lip of the table.

    Any vent holes have been taped over to prevent light escaping. This does not cause a problem because the lamps employed have low wattage filaments that generate little heat; thus, blocked air dissipation is not a factor. Reflectors are painted flat black inside and out. These alterations mean spill and reflected light is completely controlled.

Light Sources:     Lamps used are typically 11S14/CL. These are 11-watt sign lamps with clear bulbs. (A non-frosted bulb type generates less spill.) Eleven watts is high enough for dark-adapted eyes, but low enough to not be seen from the more distant house as long as audience members cannot view filaments directly.

    Although low in colour temperature, these lamps maintain good colour rendition because they are a white, albeit warm, light source. (I abhor blue worklights!). Good colour rendition helps in seeing written or typed pages when ink colours are other than black, and for when colour-coding tape needs to be accurately discerned. These lamps have life in the thousands of hours and can be left on for days at a time if need be, yet still last years.

More Light?:     Some locations such as a prop table or tech areas may require higher light levels. If fixtures are well shielded from the audience's view or are farther from the stage, 40A15/CL (40-watt appliance lamps) can be substituted for the 11S14s as necessary. These too, have a clear bulb. I carry an inventory of both in this kit with spare lamps stored within the worklight kit's case in corrugated, cardboard sleeves. They are placed into labelled, transparent, snap-lid containers, one each for the 11- and 40-watt lamps. This protects the spares in transit.

Outlet Tester:     You will notice in the list below that there is an outlet tester. It saves questioning if your worklight lamp or switch is burnt out or not, versus a non-powered outlet.

    I use a simple, hand-held checker consisting of hot & neutral blades and a grounding pin, plus three neon lamps. The neons indicate both power and proper polarity by lighting in a predetermined configuration depending on the outlet's wiring. (Outlet wiring is not generally a factor with worklights, but could be under other circumstances.) For protection during transit, my checker is stored inside a small snap-lid container within the Worklight Kit.

    Now, any light source that plugs into a standard outlet could suffice, but the smallness of this tester is an advantage. It fits into the palm of the hand and has no line cord to encumber. It can be carried in a pocket more readily than one with a cord, and thus is effortlessly ready whenever needed.
- Clamp-On Fixtures with Flat-Blacked Reflectors
- 11-Watt and 40-Watt Spare Lamps with Clear Bulbs
- Selection of Short-Jumper Extension Cords
- Selection of Two-Fers or Electrical Taps
- Hand-Held, Neon Outlet Tester