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Cable Securing:
Put leather boot laces on all your cables. Buy the thick ones that
typically come in two-metre lengths. Cut them in half for multi-circuit
cables; cut in quarter for single cables. A cut lace should be long
enough to be able to be tied while wearing work gloves.
Lash them near the female end with a tight, double-granny knot.
After coiling a cable, pass one end of the lace through the center of
the coil and bring it up to meet the other where a shoelace knot &
bow will be tied. (This type of knot can easily be released with one
pull.)
When in use, the attached tie becomes a handy way to make for a
stress-free electrical connection. Secure the female end of the cable
to truss, drop-tile T-bar, or to a handy pipe or post. Use a shoelace
knot & bow here, too, for quick release during tear-downs at the
end of a gig.
Leather ties last for years, and are very strong as long as they don't
dry out. They are superior to sash cord for all but the heaviest cables
because they are thinner and weigh less, plus can often cost less. Their
friction coefficient exceeds that of nylon cord, which can be slippery to
tie (especially if wet), and even when wearing work gloves. Plus, nylon
tends to take a set, while leather remains very flexible.
Leather ties are preferable to velcro which fails to hold once it gets
dirty or lint laden. They also surpass adhesive tape because they can be
reused for years, while tape might get a few reuses, if that. This means
that tape costs more in the long run. Plus, adhesive can be transferred
to the cable after a long periods of no use.
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Colour Code Everything:
Most losses at a gig are usually not due to intentional theft. They
are by those persons that mistakenly take something they believe to be
their own. Or, it's the borrowed item that gets passed to so many others
that it reaches a point where nobody knows to whom it belongs. It gets
left on a ledge, or it gets put into someone else's kit because somebody
thought that was where it belonged.
The solution to preventing most such losses is to colour code
everything. Yes, you can put stickers or other identifiers on, but
colour-coding tape is generally more easily recognised so it quickly
tells everyone that an item at least does not belong to any of those
persons. Wrap the handles of soldering irons, heat guns, tools -- even
pens and markers! As a joke, I once colour coded my bottle of water;
that drove my point home. (-:
Select two or three colours used by nobody else you know or have
seen. Electrical tape is recommended for this purpose because it comes
in a great variety of colours. It can be stretched tightly to wrap an
item and will stick securely.
Clean well your hands and the things to be coded; dirt on the adhesive
side will eventually cause tape to come loose. If an item's surface will
not be compromised, use lacquer thinner as the cleaner. Cut the tape with
scissors so as to have clean lines and a more professional finish. As you
apply it, place a small gap between each strip of tape to make the colours
stand out more. For cables, place banding on to each end back a bit from
the connectors. This space allows room to slide the shells back for
inspection or repair without binding on the coloured tape.
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Fan/Blower Tips:
Whether it's a small, battery-operated, personal, gig fan, or a
large one- or two-metre effects blower, always keep the blades and
grills clean so as to have maximum air-pulling power. Collected dust
will always reduce the efficiency of the unit and lessen the flow of
air.
Whenever maintenance is being performed, re-contour any warped blades
and pound dented or creased ones back into shape. Finish by honing each
blade lip to a sharp edge. If blades cannot be properly reshaped, replace
them. Use metal blades whenever possible; they typically give greater
efficiency than plastic ones.
Proper blade edging and contour maintenance will give maximum airflow
for power consumed.
Remove motor housings and vacuum the coils using a small paint brush
to dislodge dust. Lubricate as per the manufacturer's instructions. Some
larger units may have an oil tube. Remember to replace the cap after oiling.
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Don't Buy Twist-On Flashlights:
Not only are they hard to turn on with one hand, but since these
models incorporate a focus mechanism in the switch, one must go through
the nuisance of having to adjust the light beam every time it is
turned on, and to defocus it every time it's turned off.
Flashlights suited for show work have a momentary switch for quick views
in the dark, but the switch can be locked on if desired. It is best
when focus mechanisms are separated from this on/off switch. Then they
can be left at the most-used beam angle.
Another issue with most twist-on flashlights is that the batteries are
accessed by removing the switch/focus assembly. Unfortunately, if during
a normal turning-off operation it happens to be twisted too far, the
assembly then has the potential to separate from the flashlight body after
it's inside a toolbox or briefcase. Separation happens because of movement
during loading or through vibration in transit. When at the next gig,
this means a search for the batteries, the lamp and the lens assembly,
plus a hope that the latter two have not been damaged.
In addition, if one is too cautious after experiencing a few unintended
disassemblies and decides to not turn it as far, those same vibrations can
allow the light to make contact, meaning burn out of the batteries and/or
the lamp. This results in the surprise of a dead light at the next gig.
While I am on the subject of flashlights, those used by stage
professionals should have a beam that only shines on the desired work
area. Its light should never encroach upon the space of others backstage
or spill into an audience. So, ensure that the model bought has a shroud
to control spill light, and/or a reflector that has the lamp well recessed.
If you decide upon an LED model, realise that the LED is not a focused
source and few, if any, LED flashlights seem to incorporate reflectors
designed to fully concentrate all the light into a select area. (They are
improving, though.) As a result, LED models vomit light all over -
especially those with multiple LEDs.
At a minimum, LED light source(s) should be recessed into the body of
the flashlight. For those that are not, slip a tube of heat shrink over the
barrel of the light leaving some to extend past the light source. Adjust
the tube's position by sliding it out so that the beam shows only a tightly
defined circle. Shrink all but the part that extends. This will contain the
spill. Be aware that you may have to add a band of electrical tape if the
shrink tends to slide out of position.
If your chosen flashlight is non-LED, look for a 222-style light
source. These lamps have an internally focused beam. Regardless, to
minimise spill, get one where the lamp is recessed. Alternative to this,
is a `PR' style lamp that is housed in an appropriate reflector.
Finally, regarding penlights: Try to find one that has a soft outer
covering so that it may clenched in the teeth for hands-free working.
If you do a lot of this type of work, think about using a miner's style
headlight that attaches with a headstrap. Test to see that the beam is
tight enough and is well shielded to avoid spill.
For more on Flashlights, see
our Purchase Guide.
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Easier Lamp Replacements:
To have burnout replacements be less cumbersome in the future,
first inspect the socket looking for tarnish or bits of broken
lamp. Fix or remove as appropriate. Then spray a bit of WD-40
or similar on to the socket contacts or threads. For those prone
to excessive heat, use high-temperature silicone spray. Don't use
too much of either product; it should not be runny. Burned out
lamps will release much more easily -- even years later.
Be sure to date tag all lamps. This tells one how long lamps
are lasting under existing conditions. It also will make apparent
a fixture with electrical or socket problems because one will
notice if a particular fixture seems to be going through lamps
too quickly.
To date tag PAR lamps, use a large felt-tip marker to write the
year and month on the backs of the reflectors. For all others, place
a piece of white electrical tape on the inside of the fixture's yoke.
Make it long enough to have room for a second date. This will allow
one to change the lamp a second time without having to replace the
tag.
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Filling Screw Holes:
Use hot-melt glue to fill the screw holes left in cases after
removal of internal dividers, blocks or fittings. It sets
quickly and is watertight. After it hardens, use a razorblade
knife to shave off excess glue bubbles, and steel wool to remove
glue strands from aluminum edging. For a finished look, touch
up by using a fine-point artist's brush with paint that matches
the case colour.
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Fixture Alignment:
To make alignment of your ellipsoidal and fresnel fixtures
easier, set up near a white wall or use a flat, drop-down white
cloth. Which ever is used, it needs to be near an electrical
outlet. Draw a target pattern on the wall or cloth. Mark a
center point that is at the height of where the light will be
positioned for a straight-on throw. Then draw half-metre
circles out to the limit of the field angle of your
widest-angle fixture.
Have a pipe or a cradle to hold the light firmly in position while
you work. Be sure to standardise the fixture's test position to maintain
consistency among aligned fixtures. If you use a cradle on a wheeled case
or stand, mark the floor so as to ensure this position.
It's now simple to shine the light on to the target area and to
adjust a fresnel reflector or ellipsoidal lamp positioner for flat
or peak field, and for the brightest intensity. An aligned light
gives the most efficiency for the chosen lamp wattage and for the
power consumed. (For more on fixture maintenance, see
Equipment Maintenance in
our Shop Tips section.
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Hardware Organisation:
At some point, you will want to have a selection of nuts, bolts and
washers. For the road, get a multi-cubicle container with a transparent,
lockable cover if your hardware quantities are minimal;
otherwise, use a fishing tackle box with multiple levels of divided
compartments. (See Hardware Kit farther back in the
The Kits section).
For the shop a small parts cabinet will do the trick. Do not put
different hardwares into one drawer or you will spend too much time
searching for the right piece. Use one drawer or compartment for each
type and size. Each time a new box of hardware is bought, cut out the
label along with its plastic or cardboard backing. It should show the
type, size and thread information. (I like it if there is a picture of
the piece, too.) Place the label right into the same compartment or
drawer as the hardware. This will not only show identity, it will
aid when it comes time to reorder. You could even take the label with
you to the store to be sure of no mixups. Bring it back when you return
and reuse it so as to save having to cut out another label.
If you find that you must put more than one hardware type or size
into a compartment, use small, lockable, transparent bags to keep the
separation. As was just suggested regarding the individual drawers,
place the label into the bag with its hardware. Keep the bottom sections
of the boxes in which the hardware came. These are useful as open-top
kit or drawer dividers.
(See Quick Tips, at the end, for suggestions
regarding larger hardware storage.)
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Newspapers:
Use old newspapers to cover work surfaces when disassembling
equipment. Small parts show up better, and oils and dirt are
absorbed. Frequent paper changes mean you will always have a
clean surface on which to work.
Here are some additional newspaper uses:
- Use them to blot stencils when spraying name templates
- Clean paintbrushes off on them before dipping in solvent
- Place some under vehicle floor mats to soak up salty meltwater in winter
- Put a couple of sheets between lighting fixture lenses for storage
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Paint Can Nozzles:
Spray paint nozzles can often clog. Always shake well
before using, and when finished, to invert the can and spray
until no paint comes out. This will clear the pathway so that
paint will not harden within it. Use a pin to clear nozzles
that do become clogged. In addition, when a can is empty,
save the nozzle for future usage as a replacement for
clogged nozzles that can't be unblocked.
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Pen Holder:
Do you find that pens and markers tend to get lost on the bench
top or are removed entirely? Take a heavy block of wood and drill
holes to fit four to six pen caps. Glue a cap into each hole and
insert the appropriate pen. Use coloured caps for pens with inks
other than black. As each runs out, simply take a new replacement
and pop it into the old cap that is already glued into the wood
block.
The block provides a convenient and permanent home to pens and
markers, and it presents them in a straight-up orientation. As such,
workers are more likely to pop the pen back into its holder than
to leave it lying on the bench. This is especially true for felt-tip
markers that will quickly dry out if left uncapped. Making it easy
for workers means greater likelihood of compliance when it comes
to returning pens.
A bonus is that it only takes one hand to disengage or replace
any pen because the weight of the block acts as a second hand
to hold the cap whenever a pen is removed or returned.
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Replacing a Casetop Retainer:
Have a detached or missing retainer arm that is allowing a case
top to open fully and threatening to pull off its hinges? If you can't
fix or reattach the arm, or if you don't want to even use such a
mechanism, replace it with one or two nylon straps. I keep broken
ratchet tie-downs around for this and similar purposes because their
straps are strong and useful. Cut a piece of strap to fit. It needs
to span the distance from the side of the case's cover to the side of
the lower part of the case when the open cover is just past the upright
position. Allow extra length. Mount the strap well forward away from
the hinges to keep stresses low on it and its anchor points. However,
don't allow it to be too close to the front because it can interfere
with your hands or catch on equipment being inserted/removed as you
access the inside of the case.
Drill holes in the case's side where you will secure the strap
and also through one end of the strap itself. Leave a centimetre
or two of strap material beyond its hole as a margin. Now loosely
fasten one end to the side with a bolt that is just long enough
to pierce both the case and strap, and to be able to accept the
remaining hardware. The latter will consist of a flat washer on
the outside under the bolt head and another inside to press against
the strap itself, a lock washer and one or two nuts. Always use
plated hardware to avoid rust. This will all be tightened later.
Next, with the top open and supported from behind so that it
is just beyond the vertical, pull the strap taut to position it
over the other bolt hole in the side and punch or drill the strap
at the alignment point. Bolt this end on with the appropriate
hardware in the proper order, as above. Test the case. If all is
well, straighten the strap and tighten all hardware. If necessary,
add an extra nut to cover the end of either bolt if one or both
protrude to where a user might get scratched. An acorn nut is good
for this because it caps the bolt end completely. An alternative is
to cut off the excess with a hacksaw and file off any burrs.
Now remove the excess strap using a sharp pair of scissors,
leaving the same margin beyond the hole as at the other end.
Ratchet strap material can be cut without shredding or unravelling
due to its weave and the fact that it usually has thread sewn along
its length near each edge. You may have to train the strap by
creasing it with pliers at the bend point so that it folds inward
as the top is closed, but you now have a working case that won't
destroy its hinges.
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Restoring Scratched Gel:
Use scratched gel where a bit of diffused colour is needed.
Otherwise carry a small can of furniture polish and a soft
cloth to partially restore scratched gel if you don't have a
piece of new gel as a replacement, or if you simply want to
extend the gel's service life. There is also a product called
ArmorAll that works better than furniture polish.
For more information on maintaining plastic colour media,
see
Colour Media Care and Preservation
in the
Shop Tips
section elsewhere at the AIEL Website.
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Restoring Rusty Chains:
To remove rust from chains, place them in a rock tumbler or
cement mixer with newspaper. Turn at a slow speed. Rust will
be rubbed off the chains and stick to the paper. After revolving
the drum for a while, clean out loose rust from the drum and
replace the rust-coated newspaper with new. Repeat until the chains
are clean.
If oil is not a problem in usage, after the final cleaning, spray
the chains with oil as they tumble. Otherwise, coat the chains with a
rust inhibiting paint. Yes, it may rub off in usage, but it will
afford some protection for a time. Be sure to thoroughly clean rust
and oil from the drum of the tumbler or mixer when this task is complete.
- ...and finally:
Quick Tips
- Unused computer mouse pads can be cut up to line the insides
of small cases. The sponge type of pad is especially useful
for this purpose because it can better cushion contents.
- Make usage of old, plastic food container lids to mix small
quantities of glue.
- Use a hardshell eyeglass case to hold jewellers' screwdrivers
when the original plastic driver case has broken or no longer
snaps securely shut.
- Also, use a hardshell eyeglass case to transport flashdrives,
if you come to possess many of them.
- Blot the paint from stencils using old newspapers immediately
after stencilling has been completed. Your stencils will not
become stiff and crack or break.
- Before pounding a paint can lid closed, place a cloth over it
to catch splatters. Before putting away spray paint, turn the
can upside down and spray onto some old newspaper to clear
the nozzle, or better yet, try to estimate the final few
strokes required and paint them with the can upside down.
This wastes less paint, and clearing the nozzle will prevent
it getting clogged when it comes time for subsequent usage.
- Cover with cardboard the bottom of a cleaned, old automotive
distributor cap and use it as a pen & pencil holder on
your desk.
- Cut the tops from used juice cans. Screw them on to a wall
with the openings facing out, Use as rope or cable spools.
The interiors can hold smaller items such as cable adaptors.
Remove the labels and spray each can a different colour to
aid in organisation or to cover the juice company's name
for ink-on-can labels. Be sure that top removals have not
left sharp edges around the openings. File burrs to a smooth
finish as necessary.
- Juice cans also make good bins for nuts and bolts. Screw a
series of them to a wooden stud. Mount the stud at an angle
in a rack made from wood or from pipe and fittings. Have the
cans sit at a 45-degree angle with their open ends supported
by another stud or pipe. Several rows of them on a frame make
for a comprehensive hardware stand for a shop. Again, be sure
to blunt any sharp edges.
- Slit pieces of old garden hose to use as blade guards
for saws in a tool kit.
- Rubber garden hose lengths can also make reasonable
replacements for worn or broken grips on flight case handles.
They will cushion just as well. Note that vinyl hose will
not work as well for this purpose; because it is not as
flexible, it will tend to split sooner.
- Use egg cartons or muffin tins to hold small parts during
overhaul of a light. Number them and place parts in order
as related to each step of the disassembly. Follow the
reverse number order when reassembling. Larger parts holders
can be made by joining frozen-dinner trays. Some of the
largest dinners already have divided trays.
- Employ stackable vegetable bins to store rags, polish cloths,
and scraps and reel ends of cables. These are fairly
cheap at grocery stores, but can often be had at yard
sales for pennies. Select the ones with solid bottoms.
Screened bottoms and sides tend to allow things to poke
through and get caught.
- For larger hardware or for chain, use 20-litre plastic
buckets. Make a rack from pipe and fittings suitable to
handle the total weight of the rack and hardware. As
described farther back in the tip regarding juice cans
for hardware bins, arrange the rack so that buckets are
held at 45-degree angles using three horizontal pipes per
row -- one running along under the bucket front edges, one
under the bottom edges, and a third pipe behind the middle
of the bucket bottoms to prevent them from sliding backward.
The buckets need not be secured by this method because their
own weight will hold them in place within the cradle of piping.
Orient handles to the top so they won't hang down in the way
of lower buckets.
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